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About wildweaselmi

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  • Birthday 03/30/1971

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  1. Chevrolet/GM K5 Blazers, Jimmys, and Square Body Truck part locations DIY 4X (Pronounced DIY 4 by), custom fabrication parts such as bumpers, all kinds of mounting brackets, etc. for square bodies. EXTREMELY WELL MADE PARTS! Truck Shop A wide variety of hard-to-find restoration parts for square bodies. LMC, Truck Parts and Truck Accessories for restoration. Filthy Motorsports, King Shocks, Differentials, Off-Road Performance & Racing, Etc. Rock Auto, Great Prices, Easy to find the parts for your vehicle, Easy Return Policy. Summit Racing, general parts and racing/performance parts. Rocker Switch Pros, really nice switches. Hillbilly Wizard, Axles, Axles, Axles, heavy duty 14 bolt full floater 1 ton, custom axles, etc. Off Road Design, custom suspension, 4-Link suspension, hard-core vehicle components, etc Stock Interiors A1 Electric Harris Performance, INC, good info on tweaking out performance from the TBI engines. GMPartsGiant.com AMSOIL – the best stuff you can put in your engine! Join their Preferred Customer program ($10 for 6 months, $20 for 12 months) and save up to 25% and get free shipping on orders over $100.
  2. Things on To-Do List include: PAINT JOB: $10,000 TRANS: $2000 GAUGES
  3. I really like this cluster from Dakota Gauges: RTX-79C-PU-X ($1300)
  4. Rough time with putting the hard top rubbers on. No one really has any pictures First thing to note is 4 seals are needed to put the K5 hard top back on left side rail right side rail note: both attach to the bottom of the hard top and should be attached using something like 3M adhesive... spray on rubber and when tacky (not just wet) attach to fiberglass top and hold into place.. awesome if u have clamps) inner cab (this seal attaches to the cab with adhesive) outter cab (this seal attaches directly to the hard top) note: in the picture you will see black where I attaches the outter cab seal for my soft top but had to remove it to but my hard top back on) in this picture above you can see the inner seal is in place. below picture is of the fiberglass hard top and you can see the black is where the old outter seal was. here are pictures of the outter seal. skinny side goes towards hard top and the little lip faces down (you will see that you can tuck that lip behind a groove found in the top. The groove isn’t all the way but spaced out like corners and stuff)
  5. Dropped frame off at Nel’s frame shop today. His guess for cost is around $250 but anything less than $500 would be nice.
  6. Last coat of por-15 top coat. DONE painting frame! U probably can’t even tell a difference from the last pictures but that top coat will protect the rust preventative from breaking down. Tired of rust on the frame. still trying to get an appointment with Nel’s frame shop to straighten her out. then strengthen/re-enforce frame with some more metal support welded in place. Then next step is brake lines and fuel lines. then put engine & trans back in
  7. I really like these gauges but haven't heard of intellitronix but nice looking replacement gauges for sure. selling around $595
  8. I don't need it yet but I do like these fuel tanks (non EFI will run me about $370 for 19Gal). My plan is to have the fill on the side of the bed of the truck. Boyd Aluminum Fuel Tank, Side Fill, Non-EFI - 63-72 C10 http://pbfab.com/boyd-aluminum-fuel-tank-carb-side-fill-63-72-c10 Product Number: 14002 Approx 19 Gallons 1963-72 Chevy C10 Standard Side Fill Non-EFI
  9. Wow, these frames/chassis are beautiful but they don't offer 4x4 and I couldn't even afford a 2wd version but man are they beautiful http://nolimit.net
  10. Frame has been sand blasted ($300 Master Blaster, South Lyon, MI) and then came home and put Por-15 Rust Preventative on
  11. Frame is bent so originally scheduled for McFall's Collison to straighten it out for $500 but by body guy said don't do it. Instead go to Nel's Frame Shop in Flint.. so awaiting a call to find out when. Address: 5290 N Genesee Rd, Flint, MI 48506 Phone: (810) 736-4000
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