Building my new 2022 2500 Ram

I am wanting a new Ram but since I’m spending over $60k for a Gas 2500 I want it to have what I’ll use but not the crap I won’t be using. So I built my ideal 2500 in a Big Horn and a Laramie but nowhere in the country does these particular trucks exist. I am considering a Laramie vs Big Horn. Here are the builds I would want.




Now if I order it today they said it “should be” ready in 23-26 weeks.. DANG! That’s a long time. So I either have to sacrifice something that I want for something that is available or just drive the beater for almost 7months which would be August 2022 by the time I get my truck if I order in Jan. Now it “may” exist somewhere in the country but the silly Ram Truck Build Search only will go out 250miles from my zip code. I was told I can go to a dealership and talk to them and they have the ability to do a nationwide search. I attempted to work with a salesman from Al Serra in Grand Blanc but after an email he stopped responding completely so trying another dealership. I feel Al Serra is just too big of a dealership to care. For them its about quantity of sales not quality. Still need to compare the differences but for now let’s talk about the options I selected.


  • ESB:6.4L V8 Heavy Duty HEMI® MDS Engine [Standard]
  • DFX:8-Speed Automatic 8HP75-LCV Transmission [Standard]
  • GVW Rating – 10,000 Pounds [Standard]
  • DSA:Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle [$495]
  • DME:3.73 Axle Ratio [Standard]
  • BAJ:220-Amp Alternator [$145]
  • XEA:Tow Hooks [$100]


  • Bed Utility Group [$845]
  • A83:Level C Equipment Group [$4,195]
  • ASH:Night Edition [$2,895]
  • ARC:Off-Road Package [$495]
  • AD6:Premium Lighting Group [$795]
  • AM8:RamBox Utility Group [$295]
  • AD2:Snow Chief Group [$905]

RAM BOX Utility Group [$295]

So when I brought up that I want the Ram Box on my truck, people thought it was stupid. How I look at it is that its a great place to store items like tow ropes, tools and anything else since you don’t have many places to put those things in a truck. It utilizes the space in the bed of the truck that really doesn’t get used which is in front and behind the wheel well in the bed of the truck. This is typically when you get a load of dirt or rocks in your bed its where the extras get stuck and its a pain to get out. With the Ram Box you have a box (no hidden corners for dirt or rocks to hide). I also get the comment, but you won’t be able to haul your four wheeler. As the pic below shows, you can fit a four wheeler in the bed still since the space between the wheel wells is still usable space.


Standard Headlights vs. Premium Headlights

This is sorta confusing since I really couldn’t find much about the differences anywhere on the internet. So not sure you can tell the difference but here is what I can see Premium Headlights


  • PW7:Monotone Exterior Colors:Bright White Clear-Coat Exterior Paint [$0]
  • MM8:Stripes & Decals: Decal Delete [$0]
  • Lighting:Clearance Lamps [$95]
  • ANT:Lighting:LED Bed Lighting [$165]
  • LNJ:Lighting:Front Fog Lamps [$195]
  • LPD:Lighting:Center Stop Lamp with Cargo-View Camera [$345]
  • WF3:Wheels:20-Inch x 8.0-Inch Black Painted Alum Wheels [$0]
  • Tires:LT275/70R18E OWL On/Off-Road Tires [$295]
  • Tires:LT285/60R20E OWL On/Off-Road Tires [$0]
  • XB9:Pickup Box Features:RamBox® Cargo Management System [$945]
  • CS7:Tonneau Covers:Tri-Fold Tonneau Cover [$695]
  • XMF:Bedliners:Spray-In Bedliner by Mopar® [$600]
  • APA:Additional Exterior Features:Monotone Paint [Standard]
  • MWH:Additional Exterior Features:Rear Wheelhouse Liners [$195]


  • *MJ:Five-Passenger Seating:Premium Cloth Bucket Seats [$295]
  • UBL:Entertainment:Uconnect® 5 Nav with 8.4-Inch Touch Screen Display [$795]
  • RC3:Speaker Systems:9 Alpine® Speakers with Subwoofer [$595]
  • GFA:Windows & Locks:Rear Window Defroster [$195]
  • LHL:Additional Interior Features:Instrument Panel Mounted Auxiliary Switches [$145]
  • JKV:Additional Interior Features:115-Volt Auxiliary Front Power-Outlet [$210]
  • LSA:Safety & Security Systems:Security Alarm [$195]
  • XBM:Safety & Security Systems:Remote-Start System [$295]
  • XAG:Safety & Security Systems:ParkSense® Front and Rear Park-Assist System [$395]



Here is how you start your truck order process.  First you go in or call in with what you want.  The dealer will build up the order and have you review.  This is a good time to ask to see colors / options in the lot.  Once you are ok with the list on the order, the dealer will likely take a deposit from you (It is a good idea to use a Credit Card so that if something doesn’t go right you can dispute the charges).  The dealer will now have a VON or Vehicle Order Number.  This is how the truck is referenced until it has a VIN.  You are now in stage 1 of the process.

Stage 1 

B: Your order exists but isn’t fully confirmed yet. Plant doesn’t know about it yet. Systems are checking the order to ensure it’s valid in terms of sales codes.
BA: New order that hasn’t been checked, this is the status when the order is first put in.  Only the dealer knows about it
BB: Review by fleet department, the order is now being processed.
BD: Special equipment processing.  This is where things like snow plow prep etc get checked.  Special items.
BE: Edit error
BG: Passed edit n/a for schedule.  This is where the order can sit and wait for things like low volume paint where there needs to be x number or similar orders
BGL: Edit ok parts unavailable
BX: Passed edit available for schedule

Stage 2

If all is well you should move through B status’s , which is order confirm and ensuring that there are no mistakes, in ~ 1 week.   IF your truck has low volume options then you may stay in BG status until enough units are ordered for the factory to schedule.
C: Sub firm – Tentative schedule  Now the factory knows about the order.  The plant can see the order at this point but it’s not fully committed to building as the supplier may or may not be able to get parts to the plant to build the truck. I am not sure of all the details on this state yet so I can’t comment further.

Stage 3

Vehicles may go through several stages in one day.. example is going from B status to D status,  there is a C status between but it is doubtful you will ever see C status.  Once you hit D status the order should now have a VIN.  The dealer will not release the VIN until D1 status.  You should hit D1 status, the factory now has a good idea / guess as to when the truck will leave the factory.  This is when you get a VIN.
D: Firm schedule – dealer has allocation and all parts available. Your order now has a name instead of a number: A VIN! Materials should have been ordered by this point if all goes well.
D1: Gateline schedule – scheduled to be built. The date is set for your truck to be built. The plant knows when it should have parts sequenced for building and it should start to be built within 48 hours of the date set.
D2: It’s going to be built. The computers are being programmed, materials are being sequenced, framing is about to occur.

Stage 4

Your truck should move through D1 > E > F > G over the next few weeks.
E: Frame – Metal is welded together to form the body and frame. The body is inspected at the end of this step to ensure it’s within tolerances.
F: Paint – The metal is coated, primed, sprayed, clear-coated, polished, inspected, and hand finished if necessary.
G: Trim – The engine is installed in the chassis, the interior is installed, the chassis is mated to the body, the bed is put on. At the end of this, your truck is built.
I: Built not ok’d – Your truck goes through a battery of shakedown tests and measurements are taken to ensure the vehicle looks and performs as expected.
J: Built ok’d
JB: Shipped to Upfit Center – The vehicle is sent off site to have a spray liner put in, steps, etc.
JE: Emission check
JS: Shipped to storage – Some of you call this “Prison”. I like to think of it as QA trying to ensure you get what you expected. Typically if something happens or is found in the I step (or even a previous step), it goes here to get checked and fixed. A panel looks off color, a part on your truck was in the same batch as a bunch of failed parts, a light doesn’t turn on, etc will all cause the truck to get sent here for a detailed inspection and fix.  Another reason it can end up here is either the dealer has asked to have the trucked delayed (it has a full lot and can only handle so many) or it has a special event coming up. Typically that isn’t done on a sold order. It can also end up here at the start of a model year where production is ramping up but the vehicle has not be released (or certified) for shipment.  Nobody likes the vehicle to be in this status as you don’t get your truck and Chrysler doesn’t make money.

Stage 5

KZ: Released by plant , invoiced – The truck is ready to be shipped. The dealer is actually charged for the truck. As you all know, this can be a source of delay. Typically you see me put two statuses here: Awaiting Shipment and “Staged for Shipment”. The first means it is in the general shipping yard waiting to be pulled to be put on a truck and/or train. The second means it has been pulled to be put on a truck and/or train but it hasn’t actually got on the truck or train yet. There are a ton of substatuses here to track the status of the vehicle as it makes its way through the shipping system.
KZL: Released – not shipped
KZM: First rail departure
KZN: First rail arrival
KZO: Delayed/recieved
KZOA: Plant holds
KZOB: Zone/distribution holds
KZOC: Carrier delays
KZOD: Carrier holds
KZOE: Mis-shipped vehicle
KZOF: Show/test vehicle
KZOG: Damaged vehicle
KZOH: All other reasons
KZT: Second rail departure
KZU: Second rail arrival
KZX: Delivered to dealer – only one that you really care about as that means it was delivered to the dealer.

Stage Canceled

ZA: Canceled, the dealer or you have canceled the order


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10 days ago

Are you going to follow the break-in process when you get your truck?
A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.

Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.

Reply to  CowboyDenny
10 days ago

My Toyota Tundra Owners Manual states for Break-In

  • For the first 200 miles Avoid Sudden Stops
  • For the first 500 miles Do NOT tow a trailer
  • For the first 1000 miles
  • Do not drive at extremely high speeds
  • Avoid sudden acceleration
  • Do not drive continuously in low gears
  • Do not drive at a constant speed for extended periods.

Crazy rules. It sounds like to me to not get on the expressway for the first 1000 miles to avoid that constant speed for extended periods and avoid extremely high speeds. Also drive a mix of country and city roads but avoid sudden stops and sudden acceleration.

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