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About This Club

1960-1966 First Generation 1967-1972 Second Generation 1973-1991 Third Generation 1988-2000 Fourth Generation (GMT400)

Category

Offroad
Street
  1. What's new in this club
  2. Today I ordered the replacement title from cartitles.com for $79 I paid eBay to run the add for 30 days. Lots of hits and interests but my lowest price is $7000 which if you have read this entire post is a steal. Don't necessarily want to sell since I'll be loosing so much and I would of loved to build this truck. 4x4 classic truck able to do anything but wife got cancer in February 2020 and we need some income to help cover the medical bills. Material stuff comes and goes but your best friend isn't replaceable. So a skinny view of what has been spent on the truck (doesn't include everything but probably most of it) $ 2118.31 Front and Rear Fenders $ 1600.00 Used 64 Cab from AZ ($650) + transport ($950) $ 800.00 solid used 84 suburban 4x4 frame, 2500 axles $ 330.00 Rear Brakes (drums, spring kit, pads, emergency brake cable) $ 445.00 3/4 ton springs ($380.71) & new uBolts ($64) $ 209.47 Transmission Crossmember (used) $ 79.00 CarTitles.com (replace lost title) $ 6956.00 MMC Body Work $11817.78 Sub-Total This price doesn't even take into account everything else that comes with the sale: Working Chevy 400 engine 700R4 Transmission NP241C 4x4 Transfer Case new wheels and tires two hoods two sets of doors the rear glass (difficult to find) original bench seat original steering column and emergency brake gas/brake pedal assembly radiator
  3. Underside of cab is a primed and painted black with Rustoleum rattle can paint. It boiled down to two big cans of Primer and one can of black paint. i also tried to paint the firewall with some farm and home rattle can blue paint. Doesn’t look horrible but went through two cans pretty quick. decided to paint the floor with black paint and the dash with the blue paint. going to put this on hold for now since I spent about $50 on paint but at least the floor is done so I can put the body back down and bolt it to frame.
  4. Eastwood heat and sound barrier went on like crap. Letting it dry overnight and we’ll see where we are at with it. I have a feeling we’ll be painting over it. my son Zack pulled the steering column, emergency brake, brake pedal, gas pedal, master cylinder and seat out of the 63 donor parts cab. goal today is get firewall and inside cab dash area painted so we can install the parts that Zack just took off, except seat
  5. So it’s been awhile but my wife got leukemia and been focusing on helping her get better. I have been selling all my toys since she’s without a job and we need money. We aren’t the people that live with a savings and are more that paycheck to paycheck family. Thought I was going to be selling the 64 as it sits but I’m at the point of trying to put it together very slowly. Here is a plan of attack, tons to do for no to little cost. Prime under body and rattle can paint Prime firewall and Rattle can paint Off old body (save bolts) Brake pedal Emergency brake Accelerator pedal Steering Column & bracket Seat Install on new body Brake pedal Emergency Brake Accelerator Pedal Suburban Proportional valve Master cylinder Brake lines (left rear to front, right rear to center) Redo hubs Steering Column Purchase (1) Core Support (2) inner front fenders Painless Wiring Harness
  6. Got the body today, Looks pretty good but saw that MMC didn’t patch the gas filler like they were suppose to. Guess if you need something done right you gotta do it yourself. At least they got me most of the way. Just paid MMC for metal work, it’s all I could afford. They wanted, just for the cab, another $2000 for body work and $4000 and up for paint. I am going to learn to do it myself with the help of Eastwood.
  7. Got the transfer case in and found the 2nd to last bolt won’t tighten because it looks like a JB weld repair was done probably because they put too long of a bolt in. also verified the old driveshaft works
  8. GGot the transfer case / transmission adapter today from eBay and installed the new O-Ring rubber in the rear of the trans and slide the adapter on and tightened the four bolts holding it on the trans. the Transmission Cross Member I just paid too much money for, doesn’t work. Talking to Transtar Mike he mentioned the 700R4/NP241C is longer then the stock 350 or 400 trans with similar transfer case so the cross member won’t work. Sooo, going to Plan B which is attempt to use the newer cross member for the suburbans and trucks that had the 700R4 trans. looks good, just need to drill out a hole on either side. The rear hole on both sides lines up with existing holes but the front hole in the frame is too far away so I need to drill a hole closer to put the required 4 bolts in to hold the crossmember but as you see from the photo. It looks lined up. Truth will be when I tighten the trans mount and install transfer case and install driveshafts. i did have to cut the drivers side exhaust pipe to fit the support but it didn’t line up with the engine anyhow.
  9. Got the transfer case / transmission adapter today from eBay and installed the new O-Ring rubber in the rear of the trans and slide the adapter on and tightened the four bolts holding it on the trans. the Transmission Cross Member I just paid too much money for, doesn’t work. Talking to Transtar Mike he mentioned the 700R4/NP241C is longer then the stock 350 or 400 trans with similar transfer case so the cross member won’t work. Sooo, going to Plan B which is attempt to use the newer cross member for the suburbans and trucks that had the 700R4 trans. looks good, just need to drill out a hole on either side. The rear hole on both sides lines up with existing holes but the front hole in the frame is too far away so I need to drill a hole closer to put the required 4 bolts in to hold the crossmember but as you see from the photo. It looks lined up. Truth will be when I tighten the trans mount and install transfer case and install driveshafts. i did have to cut the drivers side exhaust pipe to fit the support but it didn’t line up with the engine anyhow.
  10. ordered the torque brace that goes from the np208 or np241 to the transmission. Found it on eBay #14 in the diagram below Also found, on ebay, a transfer case skid plate/shield which is #15 in the picture/diagram
  11. Acquired the correct brace which is for 1985 and older and looks like this this is what the brace looks like for newer models
  12. Got 400 engine in and 700R4 trans but missing adapter to mount the NP241C transfer case. Also not sure if I’ll use this original cross member from the 90 suburban which doesn’t line up so I would have to drill new holes or do I get a cross member for this 84
  13. So it’s a NP241C now I need to get a gasket for my 700R4 to xfer case
  14. Trying to figure out which transfer case I have. 4 transfer cases available in Square body's from 73-91 were NP203, NP205, NP208 and NP241C. All are passenger side drops, and all are manufactured by New Process. Pretty sure its the NP241C but not positive.
  15. Made some progress. 4 body mounts on. plus the radiator /core support brackets
  16. Painted the frame with Tractor Implement Gloss Black paint. Turned out okay. Looks like I'm going to put the engine, trans and xfer case in this Sunday. (hopefully) Will need to figure out trans mount/support.
  17. Having some difficulty with the EZ Chassis swap FRONT of frame. Mount on either side needs to be removed (from my understanding) Here it is showing the mount is gone.. destroyed.. outta here. Right behind front wheels is another mount that had to be removed. The replacement EZ Chassis piece bolts right up to existing holes Now further back, in front of the rear wheels you have another mount that needs to go bye bye So I made it so BUT the new part doesn't bolt up and you need to understand how to bolt on the new part so you don't make a bunch of un-necessary holes turning your frame into swiss cheese. I believe once that last one is done, then that will be enough to bolt everything cab and forward. I don't really understand the replacement pieces for the bed yet but since its the last thing I do I'm pushing it off.
  18. Okay found some more differences front brake hose is different between (Right)1990 2500 4x4 suburban 350gas (Left)1984 1500 4x4 suburban diesel As well as transmission/transfer case cross member Right)1990 2500 4x4 suburban 350gas (Left)1984 1500 4x4 suburban diesel Something doesn’t feel right. holes on 84 frame are closer together than the holes on the 90. going to wait to see how it lines up when everything (engine/trans/xfer case) is installed. tomorrow I’ll see how those new front breaks lines connect to the calipers
  19. Went to Advance Auto and picked up some steel brake lines that will need to be cut, reflared and bent then installed (hopefully tomorrow). My dad has the flaring tool and is going to help me out tomorrow. So working on drivetrain since I'm running out of time before the suspension, frame and drivetrain has to be together and the ez-chassis parts need to be installed in preparation for the body. here is what is on the agenda for near term finish rear brakes (need brake lines ran along axle) hook up front brake lines pull frame onto trailer and run down to the spray in wash (soak frame with purple power, engine degreaser/cleaner and power wash the crap out of the frame). Need oil/grease off frame. install the ez-chassis swap parts paint frame with por-15 ( just the topcoat version since frame is in really good condition.) install drivetrain (engine, transmission, transfercase, driveshafts with new u-joints) lift front of frame and check out front axle (bearings etc) From my best guess I believe the gear ratio is 3:73 for the 3/4 ton axles from the 90 suburban For the engine, I purchased the 350 engine that came out of my 91 Blazer when I put the 383 crate motor in it. So what did my dad do to my old Blazer 350 motor? new Oil Pump new heads new cam new HEI distributor new water pump new alt bracket used alternator (not positive its good) new mount mounts new pulleys new valve covers new double row timing chain new timing cover new roller rockers (pretty sure) So that will mate to a 700R4 transmission I had rebuilt for my 91 K5 from Unlimited Offroad. I didn't like how it worked with the Blazer so I ended up having someone else build me a 700R4 for the K5 so I have this rebuilt transmission that will bolt up perfectly. I also have a spare transfer case since I had a transfer case shipped from Wisconsin (from some monster truck place and its been awesome). So I have this transfer case so may as well use it. Yea, lots to do and short time to get there... just don't want to just do it to do it.
  20. Brakes are all installed (needed to pick up an adjuster to get the necessary springs). Noticed the Transmission crossmember from the 1990 suburban won't work. So I ordered a new one from LMC and its suppose to arrive by Wednesday (11/20) via FedEx Thank you for your order. Your Order W3822236 Order Date: 11/17/2019 Part # Description Qty Price Status Total 37-8459 TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER 1 $79.95 In Stock $79.95 34-0359 GROMMET SET-TRNSFR CASE MOUNT 1 $19.95 In Stock $19.95 34-0361 TRANSMISSION MOUNT-URETHANE 1 $69.95 In Stock $69.95 Parts Total $169.85 Sales Tax $11.87 Truck Freight $0.00 Oversized Parts Fees $0.00 Core Charges $0.00 Standard Delivery & Handling $27.75 Order Total (USD): $209.47
  21. Installed the new rear leaf springs (52”) from general spring that has 2700lb capacity... the most I can find in a 52” spring. Old 1/2 ton new 3/4 ton
  22. The SBC 400 was famous for running hot and that is why they have steam holes to break up the bubbles that form at the point the cylinders are siamesed. There is nothing wrong with the design, it is just that the folks that GM sold the cars too and all subsequent consumers of this fine product tended to neglect and abuse the motor. Hence the pretzel shaped heads and cracked blocks you read about. Not the engineers fault; they work fine if you change the anti-freeeze every now and then and swap out the thermostat when it seizes closed. Try this for a budget 350 or 400 torque combo that is proven and not just theory: 882 casting chevy heads with 1.94/1.5 valves, 3-angle valve job Flat top cast pistons and moly rings of your choice but Speed Pro is good Don't cheap out on machine work, get the best Comp Cams XE256 (350) XE262 (400) cam and lifter set Double roller timing set Fel Pro gaskets Edelbrock Performer EPS intake maniold Edelbrock 600 cfm carb (1406) HEI ignition and good spiral core wires 1 5/8" headers and a good free flowing 2 1/2" dual exhaust system This combo is good for about Chevy 350: 300 HP and 400 TQ Chevy 400: 310 HP and 430 TQ
  23. Still need to get the crossmember that holds up the xfer case/transmission from the old 1990 frame and install on the 1984 frame but its covered in snow so I'm looking for anything else I can do for no money. DEBAT: Do I install the Chevy 400 engine or do I install the Chevy 350 engine that was in the 1990 suburban and if I go this route I will need to replace the distributor with HEI (since I'm not using a computer). Also the intake manifold will need to be replaced and the throttle body injection moved to straight up carb. The Chevy 400 engine runs as is but Chevy 400 engines are known to have cooling issues I believe I heard. Any advice?
  24. Motor Mount answered... the 1984 Chevy Suburban 1500 4x4 was a diesel which is a different part number (doh!) All the part stores were providing the 2292 part which is for a small block engine but what I needed was 2395 which is for a big block or diesel engine. Also a note is the bolt you need to go through to hold the engine is a 7/16 14x5.188 (GM Part# 15154230) and obviously you need two. Not able to find the bolt at TSC, O'Reilly, Advance Auto, AutoZone, Home Depot, Menards. They can be ordered at a dealership but they will only order 10 at a time. I'm try a place called Mid-State Bolt.
  25. This is the motor mount everyone sells and no the middle hole doesn’t line up with the hole on frame.
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