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wildweaselmi

1963-64 Chevy Custom 4x4 Truck

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First topic should be dated 2019-03-14

Found this sick beast sitting in someones yard rotting away. Always loved the old trucks so it appears I’ve going to invest in another money pit but I’m not making it a show truck. Just want it to be a solid driver.

Will post pictures but I can tell ya I have no experience with body work what so ever so anything rusted out I’ll have to replace which is pretty much the entire body but I was given two doors (with glass) and a solid hood which would of cost me $900 for hood and $530 each for the doors so doing good there.

CAB is my biggest worry. I may just have to take it off and bring it somewhere to have it worked on.

So let’s get an idea of body work cost (besides what the cab will cost me)
Front Fenders ($220 each, so $440)
Cowl Panel ($100 each, so $200)
Grill Support Panel ($270)
Bedside-Complete ($650 each, so $1300)
Just starting… I’ll add as I figure out what mess I got into

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So started to disassemble the truck.
Removed the snow plow and removed left front fender to find everything is spray foamed. I’ve never seen so much spray foam.

Ordered some parts from Brothers

From: "Alex Delgado" <alex@brotherstrucks.com>
Subject: Your BROTHERS order has been received.
Date: April 1, 2019 at 6:26:22 PM EDT
To: <dennishosangjr@gmail.com>
 
Thank you for choosing BROTHERS TRUCK PARTS for your classic truck parts needs. Your order from 04/01/19 12:00:00 AM has been entered into our system and will include the following items. Please note that any items with a quantity listed under the "QTY BCK" field are items currently backordered and will ship automatically when back in stock. You will not be billed for backordered items until they are ready to ship.
Item Number Description Qty Ord. Qty Shp. Qty Bck. Expected By
FF66R00 LEFT  60-66 FRONT FENDER REPRO LEFT 1.00 0.00 0.00  
  Recipient: Notation: Gift         
FF66R00 RIGHT  60-66 FRONT FENDER REPRO RIGHT 1.00 0.00 0.00  
  Recipient: Notation: Gift         
FFX6066 LEFT  60-66 FRONT FENDER EXTENSIONS LEFT 1.00 0.00 0.00  
  Recipient: Notation: Gift         
FFX6066 RIGHT  60-66 FRONT FENDER EXTENSIONS RIGHT 1.00 0.00 1.00  
  Recipient: Notation: Gift         
RF56S00 LEFT  55-66 REAR FENDER STEEL LEFT 1.00 0.00 0.00  
  Recipient: Notation: Gift         
RF56S00 RIGHT  55-66 REAR FENDER STEEL RIGHT 1.00 0.00 0.00  
  Recipient: Notation: Gift         
FW5972B  55-87 FENDER WELTING - BLACK  1.00 0.00 0.00  
FTCS466  64-66 FENDER TO CAB SEALS  1.00 0.00 0.00  
FFLB600 LEFT  60-66 FRONT FENDER REAR BRACE LEFT 1.00 0.00 0.00  
  Recipient: Notation: Gift         
FFLB600 RIGHT  60-66 FRONT FENDER REAR BRACE RIGHT 1.00 0.00 0.00  
  Recipient: Notation: Gift         
FFSB066  60-66 FRONT FENDER SHIELD BRACKETS - PAIR  1.00 0.00 0.00  
AMS6066  60-66 INNER FENDER SEAL SET - SPONGE 1.00 0.00 0.00  
FSMB66S  47-66 FRONT FENDER BOLT SET - STAINLESS 5/16 - 18 X 3/4 2.00 0.00 0.00  
Your order total is $2118.31. This total includes your parts, shipping and any applicable sales tax. Please note that orders requiring express, oversize and/or truck freight shipping may require additional shipping charges. If needed, you will be contacted by BROTHERS Sale Dept. prior to your order processing. To track the progress of your order, go to http://www.brotherstrucks.com/statuslogin.asp If you have any other questions, e-mail us or call BROTHERS directly at 1-800-977-2767.Thank you again,BROTHERS Sales Dept.orders@brotherstrucks.com .

 

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Body is rusted out so found another 63 Chevy truck cab at Desert Valley Auto Parts in Arizona $650 plus $950 transport fee to Michigan.

Ordered today with F&S Carriers to deliver to MMC Collision. They did the work on the K5 and it was awesome! This truck is not a show truck but they are getting so hard to find that I want to protect it from Michigan rust.

 

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Now the cab is ordered I have about two months to strip everything off the frame. Then clean existing rust off frame / suspension, paint with POR-15. May look at anyone in area that will acid dip the frame to clean it inside and out. I would really hate to look for a new frame for this truck. Doubt they exist.

Will probably pull motor, trans, transfer case, etc so I can get all the frame cleaned off.

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Sooooooo the CAB from Desert Valley Auto shows up on the roof of a car hauler trailer with no way to remove it. S&S transport pissed me off. Another $100 to pay 6 guys to carry the cab down the ramp.

Next bit of BS is brought to you by Desert Valley Auto. You see the pictures above that they sold me on the cab. I don’t see the drywall molding for rockers or the bottom of the cab that is rotted out. All this money I paid for this cab and it doesn't even come with a frickin title?  Well I am hoping the VIN is still intact on the body so I can order a new title for it.

So I’m in this for $1500.. just paid MMC $300-500 for a media blast of the cab so we can see what is good and what needs to be replaced. Suppose to get picked up Monday for that. Not sure how long it will take.

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A HUGE thanks to my dad and my oldest son Zack for helping me remove the bed and then cab of the truck. So much spray foam and rusted bolts. Lots of grinding and torch use.

What’s left?

Remove Chevy 400 engine, 350 turbo trans (bad), transfer case and front clip.
Then, media blast frame and axles
Then, paint frame (probably por-15)

 

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It's been awhile but been swamped with work.

Sunday we are going to remove engine, trans, driveshaft and move out to shed (keep it covered).  Then we will continue on Sunday to remove the extra crap like sidebars, left over parts we cut off that are still attached.

Monday I will bring down to Master Blaster in South Lyon, MI at 8am and have him blast the frame and axles and get it down to bare metal. Then I'll haul it back home and once back in garage I'll begin the two stage process to paint and protect using

  1. POR-15 Metal Prep
  2. POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating (FIRST)
  3. POR-15 Top Coat (LAST)

Won't have to worry about rust on the frame anymore.

Looks like I may not get the required POR-15 products until Tuesday. So one day of bare metal. uh oh

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Yesterday my dad and I removed the engine, trans, and xfer case. 90% prepped. Wish I had more time to remove old brake lines and a few odds and ends.

Just dropped off frame at master blaster. Removed tires and wheels. Rest is getting hit

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Frame is bent so originally scheduled for McFall's Collison to straighten it out for $500 but by body guy said don't do it.  Instead go to Nel's Frame Shop in Flint..  so awaiting a call to find out when.

Address: 5290 N Genesee Rd, Flint, MI 48506
Phone: (810) 736-4000

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I don't need it yet but I do like these fuel tanks (non EFI will run me about $370 for 19Gal).  My plan is to have the fill on the side of the bed of the truck.

Boyd Aluminum Fuel Tank, Side Fill, Non-EFI - 63-72 C10

http://pbfab.com/boyd-aluminum-fuel-tank-carb-side-fill-63-72-c10

Product Number: 14002
Approx 19 Gallons

1963-72 Chevy C10
Standard
Side Fill
Non-EFI

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Last coat of por-15 top coat. DONE painting frame! U probably can’t even tell a difference from the last pictures but that top coat will protect the rust preventative from breaking down.  Tired of rust on the frame.

still trying to get an appointment with Nel’s frame shop to straighten her out.

then strengthen/re-enforce frame with some more metal support welded in place.

Then next step is brake lines and fuel lines.

then put engine & trans back in

 

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BAD NEWS... frame is too thin to straighten.  This frame is useless and all the money I just spent on it media blasting it, painting it, etc is just money down the toilet. SHIT!

Nel recommended looking for a 4x4 67-77 longbed truck frame to replace.

doh!

let me see if the 64 body is worth continuing project

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Went to MMC to see what body needs to make it good and solid.

Guessing between $1500-$3500 in labor + $750 for floor, $200 for both rockers + $40 for cab corners. Around $4000 for a metal cab?  Not sure.

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BrothersTrucks.com has

  • full floor (CFP660B) for $699
  • Outer Rocker (RFPS650) - $72.99 each side
  • Inner Rocker (IRPE072) - $8 each
  • Lower Cab Corner (LCC6600) - $18 each
  • Cab Corner Mud Guard (LCCMG66) - $50 each

Primed?

Labor?

Thoughts about prep work...  after metal work is done, MMC wants $2000 to do bodywork (smooth out, remove dents, etc).. I don't have the cash so it may not get smoothed out and dents removed.

INSIDE and OUTSIDE CAB: Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray Epoxy Primer Black $25/can (roughly 10 cans)

OUTSIDE CAB: (1-4 days later) Eastwood 2K Aerospray High Build Urethane Primer Gray $25/can (roughly 6 cans)

INSIDE FLOOR/Firewall: Eastwood Heat and Sound Barrier Coating 1.5 Gallon Kit $214 (roll on with a foam roller)

 

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You might want to look for a 1973-1991 Suburban chassis and this company sells a kit

https://www.e-zchassisswaps.com/8

You may want to purchase the kit first since it does have a firewall piece that you'll have to cut out on your existing cab and weld in place this new piece.  Would make sense to do it with all the other body work before you prime it.

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Ok so it’s not 4x4 and someone wants to trade me for a 91 3/4 ton 4x4. So it’s like for like (pretty much)

 

 

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Okay so I want a 3/4 ton 4x4 and both of these are 2x4 so I found a 90 that the floor and frame are gone but it sorta runs and has all the stuff for a 3/4 ton 4x4 that I can move over to the Brown 86 I showed earlier.  I believe this will require me to replace the front end completely.  The 2 wheel drive 3/4 ton suburban has coil front suspension and the 4 wheel drive 3/4 ton 90 suburban has leaf springs in front

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The plan of attack (typing out loud)

  1. remove rear axle from 90 blue rust bucket and clean it up, and paint it. (Also for some reason the passenger side wheel is locked up... hoping its just brakes)
  2. remove rear axle from 86 brown suburban
  3. install the old (non-painted) rear axle from the 86 suburban under the 90 blue rust bucket.
  4. install the new painted rear axle from the 90 suburban under the 86 suburban
  5. Now push the 86 suburban backwards into garage so we can work on the front-end (need to move over the 90 front end over to the 86 suburban)
  6. First evaluate how the front end of the 90 suburban is setup so you know what needs to be done over on the 86.  This means, take ALOT of pictures.
  7. You'll have to grind off the rivets on both vehicles.
  8. Suggestion is to remove the front clip (fenders and front grill).  it will easier to work on the front end if that is out of the way.

Also need to do a compression check on both engines to see which one is healthier..  the blue rust bucket 90 is an old police cruiser so curious if it might be in better condition or better maintained. I feel a compression check might tell all.

 

 

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Ok, new plan of attack.

1990 4x4 3/4 ton Chevy Suburban has a frame thickness of .192 (one of the thickest frames that is pretty standard for many years prior for 3/4 ton).
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I have a lineup on a 1984 4x4 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban Frame that use to have a diesel in it but its frame thickness is much less since its a 1/2 ton but the advantage is its a very very clean frame where the 90 is very scaled.
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So the plan of attack is I get rid of the body of the 1990 suburban so I can get a better look at the frame and compare to the condition of the 1984 suburban frame (that doesn't have a body on it)

NEXT, make a decision on which one to invest money in because the next step is to clean the frame and paint frame as well as replace any worn parts like:

  • u-joints
  • ball joints
  • brake lines
  • brakes
  • fuel lines
  • tie rod

Install core support (should be two bolts to frame) that hold the radiator.

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Axles are moved over and 1984 frame in garage. Replaced u-bolts ($64). Beat the snot out of the 13”drums to get them off which in turn broke the drum. So purchased two new drums from o’reillys for $90 a piece plus spring kit, plus cylinder, plus shoes.. $290 total.

ordered a new emergency brake cables (left and right) from rock auto. $40 and be here by Thursday

 

 

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Ordered new 3/4 ton leaf springs for 52” since the 1990 is 56” I would have to take things apart and reassemble.. too risky. Ordered from General spring today and they will arrive Wednesday. $400

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A big issue...  can’t figure out this stupid motor mount. No one carries this motor mount

They instead sell you a motor mount with holes in four corners. This is more of a triangle with two holes on top and one in the middle bottom.

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Motor Mount answered...  the 1984 Chevy Suburban 1500 4x4 was a diesel which is a different part number (doh!)

All the part stores were providing the 2292 part which is for a small block engine but what I needed was 2395 which is for a big block or diesel engine.

Also a note is the bolt you need to go through to hold the engine is a 7/16 14x5.188 (GM Part# 15154230) and obviously you need two.  Not able to find the bolt at TSC, O'Reilly, Advance Auto, AutoZone, Home Depot, Menards.  They can be ordered at a dealership but they will only order 10 at a time.  I'm try a place called Mid-State Bolt.

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Still need to get the crossmember that holds up the xfer case/transmission from the old 1990 frame and install on the 1984 frame but its covered in snow so I'm looking for anything else I can do for no money.

DEBAT: Do I install the Chevy 400 engine or do I install the Chevy 350 engine that was in the 1990 suburban and if I go this route I will need to replace the distributor with HEI (since I'm not using a computer).  Also the intake manifold will need to be replaced and the throttle body injection moved to straight up carb.

The Chevy 400 engine runs as is but Chevy 400 engines are known to have cooling issues I believe I heard.  Any advice?

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The SBC 400 was famous for running hot and that is why they have steam holes to break up the bubbles that form at the point the cylinders are siamesed.

There is nothing wrong with the design, it is just that the folks that GM sold the cars too and all subsequent consumers of this fine product tended to neglect and abuse the motor. Hence the pretzel shaped heads and cracked blocks you read about. Not the engineers fault; they work fine if you change the anti-freeeze every now and then and swap out the thermostat when it seizes closed. 

Try this for a budget 350 or 400 torque combo that is proven and not just theory:

  • 882 casting chevy heads with 1.94/1.5 valves, 3-angle valve job
  • Flat top cast pistons and moly rings of your choice but Speed Pro is good
  • Don't cheap out on machine work, get the best
  • Comp Cams XE256 (350) XE262 (400) cam and lifter set
  • Double roller timing set
  • Fel Pro gaskets
  • Edelbrock Performer EPS intake maniold
  • Edelbrock 600 cfm carb (1406)
  • HEI ignition and good spiral core wires
  • 1 5/8" headers and a good free flowing 2 1/2" dual exhaust system

This combo is good for about

  • Chevy 350: 300 HP and 400 TQ
  • Chevy 400: 310 HP and 430 TQ

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Brakes are all installed (needed to pick up an adjuster to get the necessary springs).

Noticed the Transmission crossmember from the 1990 suburban won't work.  So I ordered a new one from LMC and its suppose to arrive by Wednesday (11/20) via FedEx

Thank you for your order.
Your Order W3822236 
Order Date: 11/17/2019
Part # Description Qty Price Status Total
37-8459 TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER 1 $79.95 In Stock $79.95
34-0359 GROMMET SET-TRNSFR CASE MOUNT 1 $19.95 In Stock $19.95
34-0361 TRANSMISSION MOUNT-URETHANE 1 $69.95 In Stock $69.95
Parts Total
$169.85
Sales Tax
$11.87
Truck Freight
$0.00
Oversized Parts Fees
$0.00
Core Charges
$0.00
Standard Delivery & Handling
$27.75
Order Total (USD):
$209.47

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Went to Advance Auto and picked up some steel brake lines that will need to be cut, reflared and bent then installed (hopefully tomorrow). My dad has the flaring tool and is going to help me out tomorrow.

So working on drivetrain since I'm running out of time before the suspension, frame and drivetrain has to be together and the ez-chassis parts need to be installed in preparation for the body.

here is what is on the agenda for near term

  1. finish rear brakes (need brake lines ran along axle)
  2. hook up front brake lines
  3. pull frame onto trailer and run down to the spray in wash (soak frame with purple power, engine degreaser/cleaner and power wash the crap out of the frame).  Need oil/grease off frame.
  4. install the ez-chassis swap parts
  5. paint frame with por-15 ( just the topcoat version since frame is in really good condition.)
  6. install drivetrain (engine, transmission, transfercase, driveshafts with new u-joints)
  7. lift front of frame and check out front axle (bearings etc)

From my best guess I believe the gear ratio is 3:73 for the 3/4 ton axles from the 90 suburban

For the engine, I purchased the 350 engine that came out of my 91 Blazer when I put the 383 crate motor in it.  So what did my dad do to my old Blazer 350 motor?

  • new Oil Pump
  • new heads
  • new cam
  • new HEI distributor
  • new water pump
  • new alt bracket
  • used alternator (not positive its good)
  • new mount mounts
  • new pulleys
  • new valve covers
  • new double row timing chain
  • new timing cover
  • new roller rockers (pretty sure)

So that will mate to a 700R4 transmission I had rebuilt for my 91 K5 from Unlimited Offroad.  I didn't like how it worked with the Blazer so I ended up having someone else build me a 700R4 for the K5 so I have this rebuilt transmission that will bolt up perfectly.

I also have a spare transfer case since I had a transfer case shipped from Wisconsin (from some monster truck place and its been awesome).  So I have this transfer case so may as well use it.

Yea, lots to do and short time to get there...  just don't want to just do it to do it.

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Okay found some more differences

front brake hose is different between

(Right)1990 2500 4x4 suburban 350gas

(Left)1984 1500 4x4 suburban diesel
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As well as transmission/transfer case cross member

Right)1990 2500 4x4 suburban 350gas

(Left)1984 1500 4x4 suburban diesel

BCBEF99F-343B-47D2-AFE7-246705A688E1.jpegSomething doesn’t feel right.

holes on 84 frame are closer together than the holes on the 90.

going to wait to see how it lines up when everything (engine/trans/xfer case) is installed.

tomorrow I’ll see how those new front breaks lines connect to the calipers 

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Having some difficulty with the EZ Chassis swap

FRONT of frame.

Mount on either side needs to be removed (from my understanding)

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Here it is showing the mount is gone..  destroyed.. outta here.

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Right behind front wheels is another mount that had to be removed.  The replacement EZ Chassis piece bolts right up to existing holes

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Now further back, in front of the rear wheels you have another mount that needs to go bye bye

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So I made it so

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BUT the new part doesn't bolt up and you need to understand how to bolt on the new part so you don't make a bunch of un-necessary holes turning your frame into swiss cheese.

I believe once that last one is done, then that will be enough to bolt everything cab and forward.  I don't really understand the replacement pieces for the bed yet but since its the last thing I do I'm pushing it off.

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Painted the frame with Tractor Implement Gloss Black paint. Turned out okay.

 

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Looks like I'm going to put the engine, trans and xfer case in this Sunday. (hopefully)

Will need to figure out trans mount/support.

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Trying to figure out which transfer case I have.

4 transfer cases available in Square body's from 73-91 were NP203, NP205, NP208 and NP241C. All are passenger side drops, and all are manufactured by New Process.

Pretty sure its the NP241C but not positive.

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Got 400 engine in and 700R4 trans but missing adapter to mount the NP241C transfer case. Also not sure if I’ll use this original cross member from the 90 suburban which doesn’t line up so I would have to drill new holes or do I get a cross member for this 84

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ordered the torque brace that goes from the np208 or np241 to the transmission.  Found it on eBay

#14 in the diagram below

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Also found, on ebay, a transfer case skid plate/shield which is #15 in the picture/diagram

T-Case skid plate.jpg

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Got the transfer case / transmission adapter today from eBay and installed the new O-Ring rubber in the rear of the trans and slide the adapter on and tightened the four bolts holding it on the trans.

the Transmission Cross Member I just paid too much money for, doesn’t work. Talking to Transtar Mike he mentioned the 700R4/NP241C is longer then the stock 350 or 400 trans with similar transfer case so the cross member won’t work.

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Sooo, going to Plan B which is attempt to use the newer cross member for the suburbans and trucks that had the 700R4 trans.

087DE441-39EC-4C31-95A5-C2F89C48C5E0.jpeg

looks good, just need to drill out a hole on either side. The rear hole on both sides lines up with existing holes but the front hole in the frame is too far away so I need to drill a hole closer to put the required 4 bolts in to hold the crossmember but as you see from the photo. It looks lined up. Truth will be when I tighten the trans mount and install transfer case and install driveshafts.

i did have to cut the drivers side exhaust pipe to fit the support but it didn’t line up with the engine anyhow.

B4660F1A-0B66-40D2-AFB4-5FAC7E05881F.jpeg

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GGot the transfer case / transmission adapter today from eBay and installed the new O-Ring rubber in the rear of the trans and slide the adapter on and tightened the four bolts holding it on the trans.

the Transmission Cross Member I just paid too much money for, doesn’t work. Talking to Transtar Mike he mentioned the 700R4/NP241C is longer then the stock 350 or 400 trans with similar transfer case so the cross member won’t work.

AC344860-9BCA-4888-AD2F-2F7EB1E548BA.jpeg
28BEA277-88C0-4C4C-AA92-04E16AFEBEF9.jpeg

Sooo, going to Plan B which is attempt to use the newer cross member for the suburbans and trucks that had the 700R4 trans.

087DE441-39EC-4C31-95A5-C2F89C48C5E0.jpeg

looks good, just need to drill out a hole on either side. The rear hole on both sides lines up with existing holes but the front hole in the frame is too far away so I need to drill a hole closer to put the required 4 bolts in to hold the crossmember but as you see from the photo. It looks lined up. Truth will be when I tighten the trans mount and install transfer case and install driveshafts.

i did have to cut the drivers side exhaust pipe to fit the support but it didn’t line up with the engine anyhow.

 

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Got the transfer case in and found the 2nd to last bolt won’t tighten because it looks like a JB weld repair was done probably because they put too long of a bolt in.

also verified the old driveshaft works

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0799FECD-C18E-4FE2-B2A0-71E51C81AD45.jpeg

67794558-38ED-4F39-AD1F-192920A36886.jpeg

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Got the body today, Looks pretty good but saw that MMC didn’t patch the gas filler like they were suppose to. Guess if you need something done right you gotta do it yourself. At least they got me most of the way.
Just paid MMC for metal work, it’s all I could afford. They wanted, just for the cab, another $2000 for body work and $4000 and up for paint. I am going to learn to do it myself with the help of Eastwood.

 

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B05738B8-D736-4313-B16C-26D240978764.jpeg

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