1991 Chevy Blazer (K5)

[wildweaselmi]

Heading down this weekend to pickup a 1991 Chevy Blazer K5

Right off the start I need shocks and 33's balanced.

My goal is to change them to 3/4 ton axles (roughly $3100 for front G2 D44 with eaton e-locker and another $3400 for back G2 D44 with eaton e-locker)

Also I want to change the interior to all black and it desperately needs a paint job (not decided color... leaning towards blue like my cutlass)

Some interior pictures the seller sent me

Those seat belt holders in the ceiling need to be removed when taking the top off.  It requires a torx bit T35H or T40H or T47

 

[wildweaselmi]

Just pulled in the driveway and parked the new Blazer. Had fun going through Memphis then down to Tupelo, MS to pick the K5 up then headed to Nashville for the day and night then home bound on Sunday. Sunday was a long drive in a truck I wasn't familiar with but it ran good. Max speed was 80 comfortably and horsepower wise or that 700R4 would have to keep downshifting to please my demand for power.

So I didn't realize how bad the interior was, its not so good. Dash pad is cracked, sliced and butchered. It appears they were trying to replace the speakers maybe since those are the only areas that are hacked. So new dash pad is required. Driver side seat back support is broke so you have a gangster lean to the right if you want to or not. So new seats are needed. Nothing else major except I want to change the wine color to all black which means a complete replacement of the interior which is going to be hell and expensive but look bad ass. Maybe even use billet for accents.



On the exterior all I see is the paint job is crap so I'll remove the moldings and stickers from the windows. Probably get a decent paint job at Maaco but keeping it white.

Once interior is done and then the paint job is done then I'll start looking at suspension lift, possible a new engine like this monster

[wildweaselmi]

Update...

Price to get exterior painted. It looks like someone did a very cheap paint job (not removing moldings) paint is chipping off (probably didn't stick good to the wax underneath. Anyhow, Maaco said they will give it there best paint job, body work making it look like factory with it baked on for $5700 and they'll need it for a month.

Just had the suspension double-checked at Mr. Front End today to confirm what I saw. They found a bent front spring shackle and the rubber grommet on the front springs are deteriorated. Both of these are fixed with a Pro Comp Suspension Lift ($1800). Also found are some bad wheel bearings in the front which I'll do when I replace the front rotors with EBC Rotors ($300 for the pair on Summit) and EBC pads ($80).

[wildweaselmi]

Just ordered EBC Stage 3 Rotors and Brake Pads from EBC for $296.35

Now wheel bearings...
Timken or National or SKF (or are they all the same?)
I ordered from Summit, Timken 6408 - Timken Wheel Bearings for $37.94 and since I wanted the free shipping I also ordered a replacement Dorman 49284 - Dorman Turn Signal Levers for $68.97 since mine is broke.

Once I get my wheel bearings, I should have what I need to fix the front end... partially. I still need $1800 for the Pro Comp 4 Inch Lift Kit with MX-6 Shocks (EXPK1053BMX).

[wildweaselmi]

Got the rotors and pads.. waiting for a couple of parts to show up for the bearings since I have to take all that off anyhow to replace the rotors.

[wildweaselmi]

Long over due update... Bearings, not the easiest to find USA made. I went with what I could get. Bearings didn't look too bad but I replaced them anyhow. I believe why the thought the bearings were bad was you could grab the tire while the Blazer was jacked up and you could move the tire back and forth (side to side) which is usually a bad bearing. I believe the issue was the nut holding the bearing on was only finger tight and it should be tightened to around 100 ft lbs. The lock nut not the nut touching the bearing, that nut should be tightened then loosened or you'll burn up your bearing.

Put the new EBC rotors and pads on.. look good and excellent braking power at the moment.

So what's next?
I really wanted to get the Blazer painted but I have to fix the suspension. The 33" tires are grabbing the fenders and chewing them up on the stock suspension. Going with a BDS Suspension 6" lift which should look "okay" with 33" but sets me up for the ability to go to 35" tires later. Not using blocks but there soft ride springs which should help with maintaining a nice ride.

Then we can look at Paint and Interior work. Probably hold off on Paint until next Spring (2017) and work on the Interior during the winter. That suspension kit is being put on before winter... hopefully. Just gotta sell the Jeep

[wildweaselmi]

While I'm thinking of it, want to jot down so notes on the engine and trans.

Possible engine replacement
GM Performance LS 376/515 HP LS3 Carbureted - $6910 (GM Performance Parts #19301359)

DR525 Accessory Drive System - $414 (GM Performance Parts #: 19329418)

Better yet I need AC and Power Steering
19155067 - CPP Accessory Drive System With A/C - Fits LS2, LS3 & LS7 Engines - $832

[wildweaselmi]

Ok, getting real now. What I really needed first was/is a suspension since the leaf springs are busted and the shocks are shot.

Did a lot of research and narrowed it down to Zone Offroad (which uses someone else' springs, I think BDS) or ORD (offroad design) or BDS Suspension.

I chose BDS because of all the research I have read, no one ever says anything bad about there suspension kits besides they are priced higher than others but they have the best warranty (lifetime).

They offer 2.5", 4", 6" and 8" lift kits for my 91 Chevy K5 Blazer.

Today I ordered up a BDS 6" Suspension Kit (Order# 70680) which includes:
Fox 2.0 performance series shocks have been tuned and tested by both Fox and BDS Suspension to maximize performance specific to each application and to every BDS Suspension system. The basic shock design is based on proven Fox Racing Shox race products, but re-designed to maximize the ride quality, handling, and control of your BDS equipped truck or jeep, whether on or off the road.
Part# (front)98224650 (rear)98224639
Collapsed: (front)15.8" (rear)18.45"
Extended: (front)26.2" (rear)30.05"
Diameter: (front)2-1/4" (rear)2-3/8"
Top Mount: (front/rear)EB1
Bot Mount: (front/rear)EB1

Black shock boots to protect the shock shaft and seal from dirt & debris while adding color to your vehicle's undercarriage. These are packaged boots and include shock ties.

BDS Glide-Ride leaf springs will reduce axle wrap and create a more controlled and stable feel when towing. These springs are covered by the BDS No Fine Print Warranty. Actual leaf spring may not be exactly as shown in photo.
Bushings are not included when ordering these leaf springs separately. Order one bushing kit per spring.

Bolt Kits (Front & Rear)
All bolt kits come with Grade 8 bolts, thru-hardened washers, and prevailing torque nuts. All fasteners are yellow zinc plated.

Frame Support Kit. It is very common for the frame of a leaf spring Chevy to crack where the steering box attaches to the frame. This weld on support will eliminate those concerns.

Bolt Kits (Front & Rear)
All bolt kits come with Grade 8 bolts, thru-hardened washers, and prevailing torque nuts. All fasteners are yellow zinc plated.

Anti-Sway Bar Shackle Link Kit. This link kit is designed for 6-8" of lift. The new, unique sway bar links convert the axle mount of the front sway bar to a shackle style link. This frees up the suspension to travel without binding by working with the non-vertical motion of a high-arched lift spring. The shackle sway bar link design uses a large hourglass polyurethane bushing at the axle and includes new 3/4" mounting bolts.

Adjustable Drag Link. This adjustable drag link adds 2" of drop to your steering linkage to improve steering geometry and help correct tie rod end angles.

Base Kit includes Transfer Case Drop kit.

 

K5_BrakeLines.pdf

[wildweaselmi]

Reached out to Dan at Belle Tire and he checked on price of some Toyo Open Road GT 37" x 17" tires ($1300 out the door).  Check out the tread on these.

also reached out to Frayley's Transmission to see what the cost would be to rebuild the 700R4 Trans (actually the 4L60 but not the 4L60e) and put a mild shif kit in and that would be utilizing the stock NP241 C Transfer Case.

Final stop in the dream world is Unlimited Offroad.

Aaron is checking into cost for a 
Front Axle: Dana60 with 4:56, 1350 Yoke and ARB Locker
Rear Axle: GM 14bolt with 4:56, 1350 Yoke and Eaton Detroit Locker
Labor to install both

 

 

[wildweaselmi]

Just got off the phone with Tim and his daughter Shari at Frayley and he is building me a 700R4 transmission with mild shift kit, to attach to my NP241C transfer case, that can handle up to about 550hp and install it for me for $1700

As far as the speedo correction, he can't do anything since its by wire (electronic) but recommended going to Specmo

Transmission should be ready in a week

[wildweaselmi]

Here is a lesson learned. Double check all your parts before you start the install or you may discover after your blazer is all apart that you have springs from a 2007 2wd truck for your 91 k5 and let me tell ya, not even close. So put it all back together looks like it did

Ended up letting Vehicle Accesories put the lift on after my frustration of wrong parts. They charged me $700 (dropped it off Tuesday at closing time and picked up for day at noon)

Cruised over to Belle Tire and they already had tires mounted and they put some kind of beads inside so it keeps the tire balanced without the need of weights.

They tried to do an alignment and had issues getting the steering wheel to match which I later fixed at home on my own.
Went with 37" x 12.50 be Goodrich KO2 tires on a inexpensive 17" x 9" steel rim with a -12 offset

Edited September 8, 2016 by wildweaselmi

[wildweaselmi]

Now on to the next thing
1. Steering box needs some fixing
2. Transmission change
3. Axles (GM 14 bolt in rear and Dana 60 front)
4. 383 stricken truck motor with holly terminator TBI carb

[wildweaselmi]

Another update that is long over due.

Not much has changed

1. Frayley put the transmission in and now the K5 is a dog since the converter is such a high stall it feels like the trans is slipping.  Really need to change from the 3.73 gear ratio to something like 4.56 or 4.88 or ideally I need a new engine. The factory 350 only puts out about 180hp and this trans is built for 300-500hp with tons of torque
2. Steering Box did get fixed. Here are some before photos.. Haven't taken any after photos but I'll do that. Brett did a fantastic job repairing this horrible welding.

 

 

 

Two tasks I have to complete to make the blazer usable/driveable

1. Axle upgrades (big tires and the GM 10 bolt don't go well together. It apparently pops the C clips that hold the axle shaft from sliding out.)

2. New engine. This engine is old, tired and needs an upgrade.

Let's talk AXLE's first

FRONT: Dana 60 is my choice

A high-pinion Dana 60 front axle is one of the top upgrades for truck and SUV wheelers across the board. The 9.75-inch ring gear provides plenty of beef for running 39-inch and larger tires, and since it is a high-pinion front, the pinion churns on the stronger drive-side of the ring gear. The ’99-’04 models have a less invasive differential casting, which makes them a little easier to work with, but, most were equipped with smaller 30-spline outers. In 2005, Ford equipped the Super Duty platform with a radius arm front suspension, which makes the later units easy to spot. The later series Super Duty Dana 60s are fitted with slightly larger/stronger outer components, but the ’99-’04 axles are still easier to come by. All ’99-current SD front 60s are ball joint-type axles. 

Maybe the biggest drawback is the unitbearing hub. The plus side of the unitbearing is that some stock and custom unitbearings can be made to work with ABS, and conversion kits to a more serviceable spindle-style outer are offered in the aftermarket. Another challenge is the 8-on-170 metric bolt pattern, which isn’t an issue if you opt for a Sterling 10.5-inch rear axle. Custom unitbearings or kits that convert to standard hubs can be opted with a more traditional 8-on-6½-inch bolt pattern, so don’t let the metric pattern hold you back. The aftermarket is rapidly growing for the Super Duty 60, with high-steer arms and heavy-duty ball joint options now available from multiple sources.

REAR: GM 14 Bolt

Found under ¾- and 1-ton fullsize GM truck and SUVs since 1973, the sheer number of 14-bolt axles produced continues to keep the cost down. The full-float rear axle has a max torque rating of 6,242 pounds, a beefy 10½-inch ring gear, and a massive 1¾-inch pinion that receives an additional bearing to prevent it from deflecting. Later models can be found with disc brakes, but your more common specimens will have the obnoxiously large and heavy drum brakes. There are plenty of disc brake conversions, so don’t let the drums slow you down.

The biggest downfall of the 14-bolt is the size of the differential housing. Depending on which casting you come across, there are a few methods of shaving or chopping the bottom of the diff to gain ground clearance. Aftermarket support is excellent for the 14-bolt and the 1.5-inch, 30-spline axleshafts are pretty stout from the factory. If you need width, look for the 73-inch-wide van axle. While there is a narrow 63-inch-wide version, the more common ranges span between 65-67 inches.

 

Now let's talk Engine's

After much research and dreaming of what could be I have decided to go with a GM Crate Motor HT-383 Stroker Motor

Looks like it will cost about $6000 to get it running if I do the labor of taking out old and putting in new.

[wildweaselmi]

Just got the price of Engine from my buddy at Al Serra and it looks to be about $5000 for the HT 383 Engine.  Our friend Al will help me swap motors for $500 labor which is a steal.

So I have to figure out ($3800)

• $500 1 5/8" Hedman Headers LongTube - HED-63890
• $162 Moroso Spark Plug Wires - 73602
• $600 Distributor (unknown what we need)
• $2500 Holly Terminator Stealth - PART# 550-441K

 

[wildweaselmi]

Dropped the Blazer off Monday at Al's, gave my credit card to Al Serra yesterday (Tuesday) to pay for the engine which they delivered to Al yesterday so now I wait like a nervous father in the waiting room for my baby to come ALIVE!

The Transmission rebuild of the 700R4 feels solid except the high stall converter makes it feel like it just won't go but I know that because of the little 180hp stock motor.  I'm sure once this 324hp stock motor gets put in, it should move just fine.

End of next week (22nd or 23rd) the Blazer will head over to Unlimited Offroad for some axle repairs.  Current GM 10bolt won't be able to handle the big tires and power.  Currently running 3:73 gear and moving up to either 4:56 or 4:88 on 1 ton axles. Using front calipers from a 73-88 pickup truck for rear brakes (since they are so common) and going with ARB for lockers front and back with a big enough compressor to air my tires up which will be on Hutchinson Wheels ($438/wheel 17x9 with a -12 offset to keep everything in wheel well). Still rocking the 37.5 BF Goodrich KO2's

During the axle swap, I'll need high steer installed (about $700) and the axles will need Reid Knuckles which are pricey but I think worth every penny. Get a new Driveshaft, front and rear, from Tom Woods. Current driveshafts are too short since the lift and loosing fluid and getting a vibration.

Rock Monster Manual.pdf

[wildweaselmi]

Well looks like we will have to upgrade the fuel pump.  The stock in tank fuel pump only puts out about 9-12lbs of pressure and the new fuel injection needs a lot more. So since we have to drop the tank anyways, should I upgrade to a Dorman (576-312) 31 gallon tank and throw in an aeromotive electric fuel pump that can support up to 90lbs of pressure.  It's only about 200 for the both from summit

[wildweaselmi]

Engine is out

now getting new engine ready to go in

Since headman headers are on back order until sometime in October and I'm not waiting that long, moved to Hooker Competition Headers

 

 

Edited September 17, 2016 by wildweaselmi

[wildweaselmi]

Waiting for parts to show up today to continue project.

Things to do:

• Headers Install
• Fuel Pump Upgrade in Tank (full tank of fuel)
• Install new DUI distributor
• Install EFI Computer and run wires

[wildweaselmi]

Headers on and throttle body on. But have to mount fuel injection computer and fuel pump install.

[wildweaselmi]

So it runs great but doesn't move worth a crap.  The stall converter is way to tall (3500rpm) is just too much for this rig.  Blazer is at unlimited offroad to hopefully reduce from 3.73 to 4.56 and hoping that will help but I imagine I will need to get this back to Frayleys and get a lower stall like a 2800.

Currently, its not fun to drive and the exhaust needs to be fixed...  $325 at Muffler Man in Lapeer for some Flow Master Super40's on a full exhaust from the hooker headers back...  which is a good deal.  Have to wait for axle repair first.

Thinking of doing away with the sway bar due to going to high steer setup the sway bar is in the way

Also apparently Hutchinson is out of product so they are waiting for a shipment to come in and they have no ETA.  We are 5 of 20 waiting in line.  Looks like I may have to get some cheap steel wheels for now.

 

Edited September 29, 2016 by wildweaselmi

[wildweaselmi]

Did a check on status (anxious to get some driving in before snow)

axles are almost done when with 4:56 gears from 3:73

Here is the front Dana 60

 

Here is the rear GM 14bolt

I've been told they will be installed and ready for the road by 10/17

[wildweaselmi]

Looks like a good place to put the switches

[wildweaselmi]

Not starting this yet but I need to fix the gauges in my K5 but having trouble finding the bezel for a 91 as well as gauges.

Here are some options I found on the internet

LMC Truck has these New Vintage Gauges (made in Detroit) that I really like the looks of.  It gives me a sense of factory look

 

I have used Digital Dakota in my 72 cutlass and they looked pretty good and worked but what a pain in the butt to install. Lots of wires for the module, the actual back of the gauges was a cat5 cable.  It just took a long time but everyone swears by Digital Dakota gauges and what is mentioned most is the lifetime warranty.

Here is what they offer

DIGITAL OPTION

VHX OPTION

 

And I think my favorite from Digital Dakota, the HDX option

 

What's your opinion

A. NVU

B. Digital

C. VHX

D. HDX

[wildweaselmi]

Driveshafts are ordered from Tom Woods.. Hopefully here by Thursday.

Just learned front end Dana 60 is from a dodge

[wildweaselmi]

 High steer is done. Waiting on speedy sleeve, different calipers, exhaust (super 40 flow masters, center in and out, Kelly is doing the work) driveshafts are in.

shoild have it back Wednesday 

[wildweaselmi]

On its way to the exhaust shop

[wildweaselmi]

Exhaust is on (sounds good but a bit louder than expected with the Flowmaster Super 40's)

Still have Transmission issues even after it spent a week at Frayley's...  they did discover the torque converter was shot so the new Hughes 3 stage is working good in comparison.

Trans Department I need to figure out where the leak is coming from since I'm seeing drops of trans fluid on my garage floor

Engine Department I need to get some help figuring out how to tune the Holly Stealth Terminator EFI (apparently its more difficult than predicted)

[wildweaselmi]

Ordered a spare tire cover. Here is a preview

[wildweaselmi]

So an update.

Engine

Learned that the performance issue was due to not getting the required 43psi fuel pressure to the fuel injection. Why? It appears the tank was rusted up pretty good inside the tank. Flakes and rust scales were attaching to the sock and restrictin that needed fuel pressure.

solution:

upgrade tank from 25gal to 31gal which included replacing sending unit as well as replacing fuel pump and fuel filter in the event it got any of that dirt/rust from tank.

Transmission

So very disappointed in Frayley Transmission in Pontiac. They use to be the shop to go to for transmission work but this trans is been there multiple times and every time I have issues.

1st time it was a bad torque converter

2nd time it was something to do with lockup not working so he drilled a hole? It took more than a week to fix.

Now it's throwIng fluid everywhere... So gotta go back.

Suspension

Unlimited Offroad needs to work on axles. Horrible vibration when u r moving. Some say that you need an angle on the driveshaft and that it can't just go straight in. Simple fix would be to change the shim

Some think it's back lash is set incorrect

Unlimited said motor mounts was the issue but no one else can see that issue

[wildweaselmi]

The UD1 front Bumper for DIY4x with a mock install

 

now it needs to go get powder coated the satin black so it matches the back.

some negative comments on the 2" square holes. This was suppose to be for lights but the angle is wrong for flush mount. Hole is to small for any square light. Looks like I'll be using it for hi-lift jack mounting point instead and coming up with something for my lights.

[wildweaselmi]

On a side note, the hutchinson bead lock rims came in.  Obviously they'll look way nicer on the K5 then in the box.

[wildweaselmi]

So, somehow the K5 got pushed back in line and hopefully they'll look at it tomorrow.  They are still waiting for the front bumper to come back from powder coating but they need to fix the vibration that could be from the rear brake caliper even though I have a feeling the issue is more in relation to the driveline but we'll find out.

Once the K5 is in the garage, items that need to be accomplished:

1. Fix rear brake caliper
2. Fix Vibration (especially at freeway speeds)
3. Mount the 37.5" KO2's on the 5 Hutchinson Rims
4. Mount the new Powder Coated Front Bumper
5. Install the 12,000lb winch which includes remote module and hard wired to dash

I'll need to bring the truck down and get the old ProComp Rims and old front bumper.

[wildweaselmi]

Motor mount drivers side is hitting frame.  Dealership no longer can get part but did tell me replacement part number is 14071967

[wildweaselmi]

Front Bumper has been powder coated and winch installed. Still need to move box to engine compartment but it requires more wire.

[wildweaselmi]

Some updated pics

[wildweaselmi]

Transmission shop had it for a week. They replaced the trans with another 700r4 rebuilt trans and same vibration at 3rd and 4th.

They also replaced everything in the np241c transfer case to include a new chain. Only thing not replaced is the output drive. They looked for a replacement transfer case but since this is a one year only transfer case (passenger side drop and VSS included) it's a difficult task which they couldn't accomplish.

So transmission shop is done.

When I got the truck home, I had a weird thought if it could be a wrong flex plate. On the GM 383 engines it has to be an externally balanced flex plate so I popped the cover off and see it is externally balanced as it should be.

so I looked all over Craigslist and eBay for a replacement transfer case for a 91 which would have the VSS. Found some maybes and then I ran into KodiakTruck.com and he had one. With shipping it cost me around $900 but I have a solid case on the way.

Will keep you posted. If this ends up being a fail then my next move is a new monster transmission which comes with a new torque converter which would be the last two items to replace then it's back to Unlimited to check axles and drive shafts, again, only if issue is still there.

 

Edited December 16, 2016 by wildweaselmi

[wildweaselmi]

Today I paid my buddy Al $200 to help me swap transfer case I got from kodiactruck. Hoping this would remove the horrible vibration I get when going at a decent speed (65-80mph).

Had to put 5w30 full synthetic motor oil in the np231c transfer case per what kodiactruck required. I used valvoline and it took 3qts.

this didn't fix vibration. Next guess is torque converter and possibly trans from monster

IMG_2376.MOV

Edited December 22, 2016 by wildweaselmi

[wildweaselmi]

Looks like before I purchase a new transmission and torque converter from Monster Transmission my buddy Al and I are going to do some quick troubleshooting to make sure I'm not just spending $3000 for no reason.

Our plan is to remove the front drive shaft and see if the noise/vibration goes away (I don't think it will have any difference since the front axle isn't locked and the transfer case is in 2H which means the front driveshaft isn't even turning)

Next we remove the rear driveshaft and put the front one back in and see if the vibration goes away. (this will definitly help identify the rear axle or even the Tom Woods driveshaft as being part of the vibration. This also could tell me if the angle from driveshaft to rear axles isn't good enough)

If the vibration doesn't change after removing the driveshafts then it has to be the torque converter.  Currently I have the stage 3 hughes performance torque converter for 2300-2500 stall.  I would keep the same stall but possibly go with a different manufacturer

[wildweaselmi]

Okay, now Holidays are over its time for an update...  not much has happened.

Al, helped me getting some heat working (needed a new blower motor and some switch).  He also helped me getting my washer fluid to pump some washer fluid on my window to clear off some mud (bad wiper delay module).

Vibration is a remaining issue.  He did locate a bad transmission mount (crazy to think the transmission place didn't discover that since its only been in and out how many times?) but Al did the right thing a replaced it to hopefully help with some of the vibration.

He took off the front driveshaft and the vibration seemed to decrease but still noticeable (very noticeable when four wheel drive is engaged and running at low speeds).  So the thought is pinion angle is wrong which I brought up to Unlimited Offroad before when I noticed the vibration but they said it was first because of a rear brake caliper too tight on the rotor which warped it causing the vibration so they fixed that. Then they said it was transfer case or transmission (but don't forget they said it was the motor mounts before which I never had issues before, only after new axles have been installed did vibration issues start occurring).

So to address the vibration I'm going to a different offroad shop. I'm trying my luck at Michigan Offroad Center in Lansing (about an hour drive for me)  we'll see what they have to say on Monday.

Also Al noticed when Unlimited Offroad installed the exhaust they mounted a hanger to the body (WTH)..  so vibration noises carry from suspension to body. Stupid! So I need to schedule an appointment with Muffler Man to have it fixed.  Not to mention you can hear like a bolt or something rattling around inside the new muffler.

That's where we are today

[wildweaselmi]

Just got back from a couple of offroad places in Lansing, MI

Michigan Offroad Center and AllPro in effort to help me figure out why I'm getting this horrible vibration.

Michigan Offroad Center (Brian) worked on my Blazer for about 3 hours troubleshooting and came to the conclusion, they don't know either.  They did point out the front driveshaft is at an insane angle which is more than likely the cause and the only solution they can think of is lower engine and trans to make the front driveshaft work OR deal with it.

Rear driveshaft, they suggested adding some wedges to see if it makes it worse, then we could tell where the issue lies.

Again, great guys!  Very knowledgeable. Wish they could of helped me out but sometimes its just not possible.

 

AllPro is right down the street (Ken) and I figured before I start the hour drive back home I would check with him to see if he had any thoughts.  He suggested a SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) on the rear which would add some extra needed length to the driveshaft which may reduce the angle.  Also it would eliminate dirt and garbage getting caught up in the yoke.  I have been researching this a little and I think jbconversions has one for around $400 for the NP241c transfer case. Remember to include the cost of the new driveshaft with a change like this (you must either have a slip-yoke on the driveshaft or transfer case to allow for suspension cycling and differentiating lengths as that occurs). A SYE (or fixed yoke driveshaft) lets you run a longer driveshaft-or even a CV-joint-driveshaft for better driveshaft angles and less vibration and if it gets damaged you can remove the broken driveshaft and drive home in Front Wheel Drive (no loosing fluid).  So whats the downfall behind the SYE? With a slip-yoke on the back of a transfer case is that it will fall out of the back of the transfer case and you'll lose your gear oil if you pull the rear driveshaft.

These kits will both go a long ways to reducing driveline vibes by alleviating the angles of the rear shaft. The stock slip yoke is also a source of clunking as it can bind when the angles get severe enough. Having the slip joint in the driveshaft eliminates this as well.

16-1207.pdf

[wildweaselmi]

Tomorrow I have a meeting with "The Car Guys Garage" to see about tuning the GM Crate HT383 engine with the Holly Terminator Stealth EFI Master

Sounds like they have some good reviews and so figured let's give them a shot at figuring out how to get my truck running like it should. It has been very very difficult to find anyone that even wants to touch this Holly setup.  Apparently starting at $650 they are willing to give it a shot.  They said 2-3 days of tuning and running it on the dyno I'll have it back purring like a kitten.

I'm hoping the fuel economy gets a bit better.  Its worse now then ever before the new engine and the fuel conscious Holly EFI

[wildweaselmi]

Cancelled "The Car Guys Garage" until I get vibration figured out.  It's back at Unlimited Offroad since I didn't have the vibration prior to them putting the new axles in.  They gotta fix what they installed.  I don't have the money to have another business start fixing it.

[wildweaselmi]

So what's the status???

1-16-2016, 9:00am: Dropped K5 off at Unlimited Offroad

1-19-2016, 1:24pm: Rcvd quote from Aaron that cost is do SYE, replace driveshaft is around $1700. They requested deposit to begin work

1-20-2016, Provided $1500 so they can order what they need to order.

Now awaiting a status..  The SYE kit ( Part #16-1207 - $445) with 1350 Flange is coming from

JB Conversions, Inc.
P.O. Box 2683
Sulphur, LA 70664-2683

and going to

3051 W Thompson Rd, Fenton, MI 48430

They are charging 4 hours for the install which includes:

1. dropping xfer case
2. taking case apart and putting the SYE kit in (16-1207.pdf)
3. removing xfer case drop
4. installing oil in xfer case
5. installing xfer case back in K5

Then they need to measure for new drive shaft from Tom Woods and put the order in.

 

1991-Chevrolet-Blazer.pdf

[wildweaselmi]

Received a call last night from Unlimited Offroad (Aaron) and looks like JB Conversions doesn't have all the parts to make a complete SYE kit for the K5. They are hoping to have them Friday but Monday at the latest.  Add 2 days for shipping and we are looking at Wednesday next week before Unlimited can do anything which means probably Thursday before they get to it.  I don't see why they couldn't complete it Thursday if they started in the morning then they need to measure for driveshaft length and get the order in with Tom Woods and that takes 2 days which means we are looking at roughly the following Wednesday.  Of course it seriously only takes about 10min to put the driveshaft in so they can test to see if the vibration is gone.

So next update should be next Wednesday (Feb.01, 2017) when they should have received the SYE kit from JB Conversions

16-1207.pdf

[wildweaselmi]

So what's the status???

1-16-2016, 9:00am: Dropped K5 off at Unlimited Offroad

1-19-2016, 1:24pm: Rcvd quote from Aaron that cost is do SYE, replace driveshaft is around $1700. They requested deposit to begin work

1-20-2016, Provided $1500 so they can order what they need to order.

Now awaiting a status..  The SYE kit ( Part #16-1207 - $445) with 1350 Flange is coming from

JB Conversions, Inc.
P.O. Box 2683
Sulphur, LA 70664-2683

and going to

3051 W Thompson Rd, Fenton, MI 48430

They are charging 4 hours for the install which includes:

1. dropping xfer case
2. taking case apart and putting the SYE kit in (16-1207.pdf)
3. removing xfer case drop
4. installing oil in xfer case
5. installing xfer case back in K5

Then they need to measure for new drive shaft from Tom Woods and put the order in.

 

[wildweaselmi]

Received an email from Unlimited today

Quote

I wanted to let you know what I found out from JB. They are still filling all their orders from last week. Ours will be shipping out from them tomorrow 2-1-17.  The ETA for the JB Conversions SYE is Monday 2-6-17

So a week delay in game.

Looks like a possible SYE install Monday (2/6) but realistically probably not until Tuesday (2/7) at the earliest.  They should be able to finish it same day but I'm not holding my breath.  If finished, they just need to re-install transfer case and take measurements from SYE to rear for new DriveShaft from Tom Woods.  If luck has its way this would be ordered by Monday (2/6) or Tuesday (2/7) close of business. Tom Woods usually knocks it out within 2-3 days, heading back to Unlimited which should be ready for install on Monday (2/13).. if any luck is involved it would arrive and be installed on Friday (2/24) but I'm a realistic.

Most importantly, let's hope this fixes the vibration issues when driving anything faster than 50mph (really bad at 70-80mph) in 2wheel drive.  The worse vibration is when you put the transfer case in 4wd (either high or low) you get that front driveshaft spinning and you may loose a filling.  That needs to work smooth with no vibration at up to 50mph

[wildweaselmi]

Updated time...

As of yesterday the SYE kit from JB Conversions is installed but a guess a part won't fit a xfer case with VSS so Unlimited Offroad needs to send the part back to JB Conversions to exchange it for the correct part.

Unlimited Offroad did order the driveshaft from Tom Woods and it should arrive no later than Wednesday next week.  Once they get the driveshaft and install it they are going to drive it and test to see if all vibrations are gone from the driveline (which I'm really hoping it is).

[wildweaselmi]

Yesterday the K5 headed on over to a Transmisson shop since the trans failed again.  This time trying a different trans shop that was highly recommended by the head tech (Joe) at Unlimited Offroad.  I suppose we'll see.  On the fence using another local transmission shop versus ordering a trans from Monster Transmission but like Joe mentioned. Local guy is local and can fix it, test it and be good with it. Also offers a one year unlimited miles warranty.  Monster is in Florida and they just send the trans. You have to purchase an extended warranty which automatically feels a bit like you don't trust your product enough to warranty it for very long.

Should have the K5 back next Friday.

[wildweaselmi]

Time for an update....

Talked to Joe at Unlimited yesterday and he gave me a status of how its going at the Transmission shop since he just got off the phone with them.  Upon taking apart the transmission they found the new Hughes Performance torque converter came apart and messed up the pump which in turn sprayed trans fluid everywhere.  Not sure if you remember but at the very beginning the torque converter came apart the first time Frayley's put the transmission in.  Come to find out, the wiring to the lockup was wrong causing the torque converters to explode basically.

So its a good sign they found this issue and is correcting it.  They are still building it but expect to have it back to Unlimited by Thursday or Friday this week which means a Monday pickup for me.

[wildweaselmi]

So this should be a lengthly update but seriously I've had a few so will try and keep this at the 30,000 foot view.  I got the Blazer back from Unlimited and before I even drove it off the lot I noticed an oil leak which I pointed out to the salesman Aaron Dixon which noted the leak.  We assumed it was left overs from the trans pump seal going and shooting trans fluid everywhere but you could see its engine oil not transmission oil.  I figured I'd spray/clean the underside and see if it continues to produce oil which it did.

Last Thursday I brought the Blazer back to Unlimited to correct the issues since the oil leak is a new development since it left there shop.

I talked to Aaron today and it appears the power steering pump is also leaking.

So high level, power steering pump is leaking, transfer case is leaking the synthetic 5w-30 Mobil engine oil and not sure if the engine is leaking any oil or if all the engine oil is possibly coming from the transfer case vent tube that is attached to the trans filler tube which lines up with the side of the engine that is showing signs of engine oil leaking.

Suggestion: PSC (http://www.pscmotorsports.com/vehicle-specific-products/gm-truck-steering?cat=246&limit=all)

Time will tell...