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1991 Chevy Blazer (K5)


wildweaselmi
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Ok, not a great update.

Good News

power steering fixed

 

Bad News

Leaking seal on Xfer case for gear selector

xfer case vent leaking oil

 

So moved to a SYE by JB conversions a bit ago to help eliminate vibrations in the driveline which worked. Bad news is before the SYE the air build up could slip out the slip yoke seal if build up happens.

JB_SYE.jpg

Now it's sealed tight so the vent is now an escape for the transfer case oil. Moved to ATF since it's thinner than the Mobile Synthetic oil. An option was to put a thicker/wider vent tube or relocate the vent on the xfer case which is what we ended up doing. Moving the vent away from the chain hoping to still allow heat to escape and pressure out but keep oil in.

spacer had to be used by alternator since belt was being eaten.

will find out in about two weeks

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Ok so we are now working.  Transfer case is no longer leaking.  Transmission was provided by one of Sammons contacts and it seems pretty good (just a little sluggish between shifts)..  Currently at Motor City Steel for an ignition upgrade and dyno tune on the Holly Terminator which they are certified to tune.

Hopefully next week I should be ready to go. Very excited to see what they can do

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Got it back from Motor City Steel.  On a 1-5 rating I'm giving them a 3.  Some annoying facts about the company.

  1. They never ever answer the phone
  2. They are slow..  they promise one time and deliver many many days or weeks after.

Now why am I giving them a 3.  I believe they do good work.  Just be patient.  If you are in a rush stay away.  If they say a week count on a month.  If they say a month count on two months.  At least double whatever they quote you.  They are also a tad on the expensive side.

So I got it back and it runs pretty good.  I would say I'm at about 75% happy with how it runs.  The trans is still a tad sloppy and it stalls every once in awhile when you first start it and finally, the torque converter locks up and you wish it would of waited just a tad longer.

***************

On another note, I found out finally how to remove the top on the 91 K5 since its different then the rest because its the only year that comes with seat belts that come down from the top.

Open the cover to the seatbelts there are 2 bolts that have to be removed. There's also a plate behind the drivers side seat. Open that and there is a plug in there for the light. Then all that is left is the bolts on the top itself. It is a safety torx They sell the bit at auto zone. It is a size 40. We had to buy the bit because a regular torx will not do it. The bolts have a solid center to them. So get a bit that has the center taken out of it to accomidate the solid center of the bolt. Other than that have someone there to help you gently lift the top off and back. We slid it down to the tailgate and carried it off from there.

Below is from a 75 but the cab and rails should be similar. The biggest difference is the seatbelts and electrical hookup for the light.

75topremoval.thumb.png.fdcd215925b084e737b2985e5653f5d4.png

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Prepping for my drive to the Silver Lake Sand Dunes this weekend with some buddies.  I still have a trans leak (seems like its coming from the kick down cable but not positive). I checked the trans pan bolts and they are tightened to 12 ft lbs of torque like they should. Its currently got a cork gasket (which may get swapped for one of those nice FelPro gaskets) I just did my first oil change (put in 5w30 Royal Purple.. took 5qts) and used an AC Delco pf1218 oil filter. All joints I saw got some grease so ready to go.

large.large.IMG_2888.JPG.d2bd2ad9314f358a9c015682fd3dc29c.JPGlarge.large.IMG_2885.JPG.bb04207e0c3839607d127ddd7226e4e0.JPG

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  • 7 months later...
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So fender issue is now much worse

8EE04C1B-283E-4224-AFE1-9195C7186A70.jpeg

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not sure what the solution is. I see a lot of articles talking about either

A. Trimming fender (cutting the fender which takes away from the look but adds functionality)

B. Moving axle forward by 1 inch (this could also help with vibration in 4wheel drive due to the angle but could cause issues with high steer)

 

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Wow, Kert at DIY4x responds pretty quick to online questions.  Seriously like less than 5minutes he also suggested moving the axle forward.  But how?

A. Drilling the Spring Perches

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B. Easy Inch Kit

 

EEA87E22-0835-45B8-8E5B-06D3D0F33D4F.jpegPretty sure if I could move it just one inch forward I would be good but whats the best route?

for my lack of confidence I lean towards the easy inch kit which is a plate under your springs that will offset your axle forward roughly an Inch

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  • 4 months later...
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So in regards to what I decided to do to fix my tires rubbing is nothing for the moment.  Instead I took the top off the Blazer (its 90+ degrees out) and learned you should never do this by yourself..  it was HEAVY.  Luckily I didn't break any of the custom glass windows in the hard top when I dropped it.. a couple times.

BUT luck ran out real quick when I discovered how bad the rust is that was hidden with the top on.

Let me upload some photos so you can feel my pain

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Just dropped the Blazer off at around 4:15pm today (5/30/2018) to get that rust repaired (estimate is $1100 - $2500 and two weeks)

MMC_Collision.png

112 State Street
Davison, MI 48423

Open: Mon. – Fri.  9 a.m. till 5 p.m.

810-412-4215

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Let me tell ya its difficult to walk out into my garage and not see my Blazer there.  I wonder how often you can stop by and check on progress without becoming a pain in the ass.

Pretty sure I am going to just swing by today and see if they started on it.  Anxious to see the progress and how much metal is gone after they sand blast all the rust off.

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Ok so I stopped by MMC to see if they had a chance to start working on the Blazer and to my surprise they have already started, so that's the good news.

Now the bad news is apparently TONS of rust.  As they are getting into it, they found it would be great to find a new skin they could just lay down but no one makes it for the Blazer (including LMC Truck) so they have to custom make everything.

Will keep you posted.

Just as a reference point, I did find some cool sites for auto body parts

91K5RoofPanels.png

https://www.autobodyspecialt.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=0111

This one shows only to 1986: http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/chevrolet-k5blazer-parts.aspx

RPS: http://restorationpartssource.com/store/K5 Blazer_1981_1991_Sheet_Metal_and_Body_Parts.htm

GM Discount Parts I always check because I love OEM but most of the time they don't have what I need but its a great place to get part numbers that you can search for on the internet

https://www.gmdiscountpartsnow.com/a/Chevrolet_1991_Blazer-Silverado-57L-Chevrolet-AT/_51505_6403488/ROOF--COMPONENTS-EXTERIOR-TRIM/GC1120.html

OEMcats is a great site for OEM parts: http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/355616.html

Car-Part.com is a great search of all junk yards in United States.  You can sort my closest since many don't ship big parts.

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MMC collision in Davison did a fantastic job fixing the roof. Check out the after pictures here. It was around $2500 for all the work.  I’ll try and get pics when they were working on it. I may have them paint my blazer in the winter

 

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softopper.png

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The 700R4 just isn't right so I brought the Blazer to someone my dad knows "Dan the Trans man" since he did such a fantastic job on getting my dads 40 tuned in (as far as Transmissions go).

After about two days he looked it over and several bolts were loose that hold the trans as well as the bolts on the pan.  But what worries me is when he drained the fluid he found a bunch of brass or copper shavings in the oil.  He said its more than likely from the torque converter (which I already blew up a torque converter that Frayleys Transmission put in).  Dan's estimate to rebuild it the way it should be built is about $2000 and he needs three days.

Going to table that for now and just drive it.  Dan also had to replace the governor. The green gear at the end was very worn out.  It drives pretty good now but I don't feel I have the 4th gear like I use to but could all be in my head.

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It looks like I need to update my rear bumper.  The weight of a 37.5" tire is just too much for the Offroad Ltd Bumper.

A4EC3126-EEAD-416F-96E9-DA63127FE796.jpeg

So I am looking at what DIY4x offers for a rear bumper tire carrier and they have one option which is this bumper

swing down tire carrier 4.jpg

I like how durable it is but I have some minor issues in comparison.
CONS

  1. I don't like the lights on angle, prefer them to be straight (silly I know)
  2. I love how the OffroadLtd Bumper had a place for my jack. Not sure how to work that in here
  3. Bummer for me is I can't have my tire cover anymore with this design.

PROS

  1. No movement from bumper with weight of tire like there is with OffroadLtd Bumper
  2. Easy to get tire
  3. Way easier to get access to tailgate

So we'll see what happens.  Its all about money.

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Changed Oil in my Blazer today. (325,288 miles)

5 quarts of Royal Purple 5w-30 (I have one more 5qt container then I'll probably move to Mobile One since it can be found everywhere and it performs as good if not better than Royal Purple)

Advance Auto didn't have my AC Delco PF25 Oil Filter so I went with a K&N HP 2002 filter (last time I get a K&N Filter and think I'll use FRAM next time)

Check out the Oil Filter Cross Reference site here

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  • 3 months later...
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Ok need to update the "To Do List"

  1. I have to figure out my HVAC and why not getting air movement. Pretty sure the duct work is messed up. Wish some of these after market companies just made replacement (rebuild kit)..  not Vintage Air.. had that in my cutlass and it totally sucked.
  2. Roll Cage (seems silly and very expensive but I won't go on some of these trails with my kids in the back without one.
  3. Custom Dash (make it more usable).  I was always trying to keep everything original, now I just want it functional
  4. Transmission. Yea, still fighting this battle. It's not horrible but I don't trust it after Dan the Trans man found copper shavings at the bottom of the trans pan...  he said more than likely the torque converter is going bad (again).
  5. Storage. I would like to add some sliding storage to the back so I can keep many of my supplies secured (especially when the top is off)
  6. Rear Bumper. Get a more functional heavy duty bumper that I can carry my spare without worrying about the weight of it ripping it off.
  7. Center Console. Need somewhere to keep all your loose papers, HAM Radio, etc.
  8. Rock Sliders (DIY4x)

 

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  • 10 months later...
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Rough time with putting the hard top rubbers on. No one really has any pictures

First thing to note is 4 seals are needed to put the K5 hard top back on

left side rail

right side rail

note: both attach to the bottom of the hard top and should be attached using something like 3M adhesive... spray on rubber and when tacky (not just wet) attach to fiberglass top and hold into place.. awesome if u have clamps)

inner cab (this seal attaches to the cab with adhesive)

outter cab (this seal attaches directly to the hard top) note: in the picture you will see black where I attaches the outter cab seal for my soft top but had to remove it to but my hard top back on)

A6A6CEEA-B9C6-49C3-9E02-BCCCF26024CF.jpeg

in this picture above you can see the inner seal is in place.

below picture is of the fiberglass hard top and you can see the black is where the old outter seal was. 

2AA0E40E-DEB3-4774-A2DC-B1FCE31917E3.jpeg

here are pictures of the outter seal.

skinny side goes towards hard top and the little lip faces down (you will see that you can tuck that lip behind a groove found in the top. The groove isn’t all the way but spaced out like corners and stuff)

ACBE64AD-4F26-47F0-8A50-02E865F0A25C.jpeg

BEE9B20E-4B1C-4464-B3AB-B1FE70189D26.jpeg

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Chevrolet/GM K5 Blazers, Jimmys, and Square Body Truck part locations

  • DIY 4X (Pronounced DIY 4 by), custom fabrication parts such as bumpers, all kinds of mounting brackets, etc. for square bodies.  EXTREMELY WELL MADE PARTS!
  • Truck Shop A wide variety of hard-to-find restoration parts for square bodies.
  • LMC, Truck Parts and Truck Accessories for restoration.
  • Filthy Motorsports, King Shocks, Differentials, Off-Road Performance & Racing, Etc.
  • Rock Auto, Great Prices, Easy to find the parts for your vehicle, Easy Return Policy.
  • Summit Racing, general parts and racing/performance parts.
  • Rocker Switch Pros, really nice switches.
  • Hillbilly Wizard, Axles, Axles, Axles, heavy duty 14 bolt full floater 1 ton, custom axles, etc.
  • Off Road Design, custom suspension, 4-Link suspension,  hard-core vehicle components, etc
  • Stock Interiors
  • A1 Electric
  • Harris Performance, INC, good info on tweaking out performance from the TBI engines.
  • GMPartsGiant.com
  • AMSOIL – the best stuff you can put in your engine!  Join their Preferred Customer program ($10 for 6 months, $20 for 12 months) and save up to 25% and get free shipping on orders over $100.
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Dropped off my new Performa Built 700R4 Trans with new trans cooler to my buddy Al to have him swap transmissions.  He's also helping me figure out how to add a rear emergency/parking brake since I don't have one once I moved to calipers from drums.

We believe we are going the route that Lug Nut 4x4 has for around $280.  It uses Cadillac Eldorado calipers that have the attachment for the emergency brake cable.  Issue is these calipers are getting harder and harder to find so I may order another set of calipers from someone to just have in my inventory.

Quote

 

The kit features:

Calipers with a clever cable operated mechanism to actuate the brakes. The calipers should work just fine with your OEM parking brake cable.

Proven parking brake design is based off of 1976-1978 Cadillac Eldorado calipers (no longer in production) which allowed the parking brake to be set with a standard cable.

The mounting dimensions of these calipers are exactly the same as the JB6/JB7 brake calipers used in almost all of our kits — these calipers will mount on any brackets that accommodate the JB6/JB7 caliper

You can add substitute these calipers into most of our disc brake conversion kits, or order them separately here.

Whether you need a parking brake for inspection or for piece of mind, this kit works great.

 

Finally, while its up on the hoist, fixing my leaking gearbox.  It appears the retail stores (Adv Auto, Autozone, O'Reillys) all carry horrible quality gearboxes.  Mine just split right down the seem.  Garbage!

Also I just learned that AC Delco are all made in Mexico.  I always thought they were an American company.  Surprise!  At least its not the poor quality parts most retail stores get from China.

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Got the bug..  its Spring Time and I want to go hit some trails but while my transmission is getting put in, I am working on comm's.

My center console is broke, cracked and I have been just too stubborn not wanting to let go of factory original but I took the plunge and just ordered the TUFFY SECURITY PRODUCTS DELUXE STEREO SECURITY CONSOLE - 12.5" WIDE BLACK from Tuffy Products.  I was hoping I could install the GMRS radio where the "stereo" would go.

So now to the GMRS radio choices and then antennas

GMRS Radio CHOICE #1

Wouxun KG-1000G GMRS Base/Mobile Two Way Radio

  • 30 GMRS Channels
  • 8 Built-In GMRS Repeater Channels
  • 999 Custom Memory Channels
  • 50-53.995 MHz Receive Only Frequencies (6m)
  • 108-179.995 MHz Receive Only VHF Frequencies
  • 320-349.995 MHz Receive Only Frequencies
  • 400-479.995 MHz Receive Only UHF Frequencies (70cm)
  • 700-985 MHz Receive Only Frequencies
  • AM 108-136MHz (RX)
  • Built-in NOAA Weather Channels
  • Repeater Capable
  • Tune Specific Frequencies Directly (Frequency Mode)
  • 8 Group Descrambler
  • 50W Maximum Transmit Power
  • FM Radio
  • 4 TX Power Levels
  • Channel Scan
  • Priority Scan
  • Supports 10 Scan Groups
  • Simultaneous Scanning on A/B Areas
  • CTCSS/DCS Tone Scan
  • Wide/Narrow Bandwidth Selectable
  • Busy Channel Lockout
  • Repeater Mode (Requires 2nd Unit)
  • Companding
  • Standard and Non-Standard CTCSS/DCS
  • Split CTCSS/DCS Tone Support
  • Large LCD Dual Frequency Display
  • Three Color Selectable LED
  • Backlit Keypad
  • Channel Name Edit and Display
  • Battery Meter
  • Minimum Operating Voltage Settings
  • Adjustable Cooling Fan Control
  • Automatic Temperature Testing
  • APO Power Management
  • Timeout Timer
  • Keypad Lock
  • Audible Button Beeps
  • English Voice Prompts
  • Dual 3.5mm External Speaker Ports
  • Offset Frequency ProgrammableReceive AM Transmissions
  • Auto-Detect AM Transmissions
  • Group Call, All Call and Selective Call
  • Incoming Caller ID Display
  • PC Programmable (Requires Optional Cable)
  • Dual Speakers
  • Multiple Speaker Output Settings
  • 3 Configurable Front Panel Buttons
  • Backlit DTMF Hand Microphone With Speaker
  • Cooling Fan
  • Remote Front Panel Installation Option
  • DTMF Encoding and Decoding
  • Stun and Kill Function
  • Reset
  • One Year Manufacturer Warranty
  • Dimensions: 5.51 in. x 1.73in. x 8.14 in. (140mm × 44mm × 207mm)

 

GMRS Radio CHOICE #2

MXT400 MICROMOBILE®TWO-WAY RADIO

  • Full 40W Radio
  • 8 repeater channels for increased communication range
  • 15 high power GMRS channels
  • Radio Dimensions: 1.6" x 5.5" x 7.3"
  • 142 privacy codes
  • Silent Operation
  • Channel Scan
  • Programmable Squelch
  • Keypad Lock
  • Monitor Mode
  • Keystroke Tones
  • Digital Volume Control
  • Backlit Display
  • Compatible with all Midland FRS/GMRS radios <-- what does this mean?  Does it mean its only compatible with Midland radios?  Does it mean there is something special regarding Midland Radios?

So when you look at the two GMRS radios they are very close in price and the Midland looks easier to use but WOW the extra features you get with the Wouxan is crazy awesome.  Difficult not to go this route but will it fit in my Tuffy Console.

Compare Dimensions

  • Console: 2 1/8H x 7 1/4W x 7Depth
  • Wouxun: 1 3/4H x 5 1/2W x 8 1/4D
  • Midland: 1.6H x 5.5W x 7 1/2D

So Height we are good, Width we are good but Depth I'm screwed so I will need to figure out something.  With the Wouxun radio I plan on taking off the face and moving it so maybe that fixes my issue.  I'm wondering if I can install the console a little higher to give me another 1 1/4" for Depth to allow the radio to fit fully.

Let's discuss ANTENNA's and mounts.  After much research on what I needed and how I wanted to mount I decided on the following:

1258-UHF.jpg1258-UHF mount (Tram 3/4" Hole Mount w/ Cable (NMO, PL259) that I plan on mounting on my bumper

The Tram 1258-UHF is a high frequency fully shielded 3/4" NMO hole mount.

  • Tram NMO 3/4" hole antenna mount
  • High frequency fully shielded NMO mount
  • Standard thickness mounting
  • Small gold contact pin
  • Solid brass NMO ring
  • Zinc diecast enclosed mount
  • Low loss up to 1.5 GHz
  • 17ft. RG-58 coax cable
  • Stranded coax conductor
  • UHF PL-259 male connector
  • Requires a 13/16" hole

MXTA26_600X400.jpgMidland MXTA-26 (6db gain) antenna

This 32-inch whip antenna quadruples signal output. When maximum range is your goal, the MXTA26 6dB gain whip antenna is the perfect choice. Great for off-roaders, farmers, and more, this long-range antenna is designed with a spring at the base and a coil at the center. The spring allows for extra flexibility to prevent damage from light, incidental contact when you’re traveling off the beaten path.

Spoke to Rob at buytwowayradios.com and I asked if I should consider a quad band or tri-band antenna and he said why?  All the KG-1000 can operate on is one band so why have two or three bands you can't even use on your antenna.  Instead get an antenna that is designed for GMRS only which is this Midland MXTA-26.

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So this rabbit hole I'm in started with needing a GMRS radio, so now that I got that coming (almost $500 later), I need an SPOD to wire up power.

I believe I'm going to go with BANTAMX HD FOR UNI WITH 36" BATTERY CABLES $915

It comes with 8 possibilities and I figure I'll run

  1. Fog Lights
  2. Rear Lights
  3. Lightbar
  4. Underhood Light
  5. ARB Compressor
  6. Front ARB Locker
  7. Rear ARV Locker
  8. GMRS Radio

That will keep me safe (as far as power goes) but going to wait for my Tuffy Center Console and the Radio to come in and then I'll start running wires.

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Soo, the Performa built 700R4 transmission is installed and I have two issues.

  1. Doesn't shift out of 1st gear until I get to 35mph
  2. A chirping noise when its in gear only (Drive or Reverse), no chirping when in park a revving..  just when there is a load.  Below is a very quick video of me brake torquing (so holding brake down while giving some throttle, while in reverse).

 

Marked the Torque Converter to show where it's attached to the flex plate, Loosened up the torque converter bolts pulled back the torque converter and spun it around and then pushed it forward making sure it will be attached to the flex plate in a different position.  No difference.

Reaching out to Perform Built for some suggestions.  I believe the governor is probably the fix for the not shifting until 35 but the chirping noise doesn't make any sense to me.  Its a new noise that developed with this new trans and torque converter.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Replaced the 153 tooth Flex Plate and no difference, so I ordered a TCI Torque Converter (1800 stall) from Summit and also a PowerMaster XS starter which will eliminate everything outside the transmission.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Now the death wobble is happening more often than not which the death wobble is expected since I don't have any steering stabilizer installed.  I have the high steer on reid knuckles on the Dana 60 front axle.

3C666D54-AEDA-4054-A9FB-3AAAC5982CE1.jpeg

So now on the hunt for a great steering stabilizer for my setup.

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  • 1 month later...
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Dropped the Blazer off at Alpha Motorsports yesterday to see if they can tune it so it doesn't stall when its cold and maybe get it to not diesel when it shifts into 4th.

Flat Rate of $100/hr labor

  • 2 hr estimate to diagnose the engine issues

I also asked them if they have time if they could look into the suspension but my primary focus is to get it to run good.

 

Been talking on the phone with a guy named Randy.  Very nice and polite and very up front with costs and work that needs to be done.

 

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Talked to Randy today and they added the part but said it got installed wrong but they fixed it. They are moving mechanics from one project to another since they are short handed.

I did ask him if he could video the dyno and he said he would try but no guarantee since they are swamped.

I’ll chat with them when I get back into town so probably Friday 

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  • 1 month later...
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INTERIOR TASKS

  1. Fix Intermittent Wipers (should just be a new lever but could require a new wiper motor).  Also need to get the washer fluid solid so I can wash off any mud or dirt
  2. HVAC (currently don't really get much air flow so need to pull out the ducts and see if got a mouse nest or if blower motor is dying or even if the flappers aren't working)
  3. Pull out Seats, Carpeting, Padding, Inside Trim, Roof.
  4. Inspect metal for any rust what so ever (take care of any rust spots)
  5. Undercoat interior metal floors, fenders (anything metal inside)
  6. Dynomat anything metal inside (need to quite down interior space)
  7. Look into install rollbar to attach rear seatbelts to and potentially boat speakers for when the top if off
  8. Install new padding/carpeting
  9. Install seats
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