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2003 Suburban 2500 4x4

2003 Suburban 2500 4x4
wildweaselmi
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wildweaselmi
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This is my new daily driver which is a 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban LT with the 8.1L but its so clean.

  • VIN: 3GNGK26G33G178131
  • Color: Charcoal
  • Mileage: 129222
  • Rear Axle: 14 bolt (1999 - 2015 GM 10.5" 14 Bolt )
  • Trans: 4L80-E
  • Engine: 8.1L (The 8.1L Vortec was the final big block gas engine from GM to date)
    • The highest power rating was 340 horsepower, reached at 4200 RPM, while the highest peak torque ever reached was 455 lb-ft, achieved at 3200 RPM.

Cargo Area Dimensions

Cargo Volume to Seat 4 (ft³)  
Cargo Volume to Seat 3 (ft³) 45.7
Cargo Volume to Seat 2 (ft³) 90.0
Cargo Volume to Seat 1 (ft³) 131.6
Cargo Box (Area) Height (in) 40.5
Cargo Box Width @ Wheelhousings (in) 49.1
Cargo Area Width @ Beltline (in) 49.2
Cargo Area Length @ Floor to Seat 4 (in)  
Cargo Area Length @ Floor to Seat 3 (in) 36.1
Cargo Area Length @ Floor to Seat 2 (in) 69.6
Cargo Area Length @ Floor to Seat 1 (in) 104.6
Cargo Area Length @ Floor to Console (in) - TBD -

Exterior Dimensions

Wheelbase (in) 130.0
Length, Overall w/rear bumper (in) 219.3
Width, Max w/o mirrors (in) 79.8
Height, Overall (in) 76.4
Overhang, Front (in) 37.0
Overhang, Rear w/bumper (in) 52.3
Ground to Top of Load Floor (in) 32.5
Ground Clearance, Front (in) 8.1
Ground Clearance, Rear (in) 7.1
Rear Door Opening Height (in) - TBD -
Rear Door Opening Width (in) - TBD -
Side Door Opening Height (in)  
Side Door Opening Width (in)  
Step Up Height - Front (in)  
Step Up Height - Side (in)  

Interior Dimensions

Passenger Capacity 7
Passenger Capacity 8
Front Head Room (in) 40.7
Front Leg Room (in) 41.3
Front Shoulder Room (in) 65.2
Front Hip Room (in) 61.4
Second Head Room (in) 39.0
Second Leg Room (in) 39.1
Second Shoulder Room (in) 65.1
Second Hip Room (in) 61.3
Third Head Room (in) 38.6
Third Leg Room (in) 36.1
Third Shoulder Room (in) 64.4
Third Hip Room (in) 49.2

6 Comments

Yesterday picked it up from Hank Graff Chevrolet from doing some overdue routine maintenance.  BIG bill of $4500. ouch! should be good for awhile.  Want to make sure it stays reliable.

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Replaced Headlights, Driving Lights with GM OEM replacements (now its not faded).  Also replaced the fog lights with an after market driving light.  Not impressed by the light it gives. May need to adjust.

Some need to do's...

  • Do I have some Black Rims that will work?  (I think I do)
  • Would love to replace the front bumper with one with a hidden winch
  • remove running boards and add some molded mud flaps
  • possibly add trailer brake controller
  • add more tint to back windows

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yesterday I was cruising along and noticed my Oil Pressure was at zero. Doh!  pulled over immediately and checked oil and its full.  Just changed oil from conventional to Mobil 1 (synthetic).  Kept driving to get home and no knocking or ticking so I'm hoping its just the sensor / sending unit.  Standard brand is twice as much as AC Delco so I went with AC Delco for $52 from Ross Automotive in Davison, MI which I'll pick up today at noon. Hoping its not too bad of a job since its 30 degrees F out and I'll be doing this in the driveway.

Its gotta be either Oil Pressure Sending Unit or Oil Pump.  Let's hope its just the sensor so the engine is fine.  Running an engine without the oil pump pushing oil into the engine is very very bad.  A new/reman 8100 block runs around $9,000 (ouch).. just for the block. no labor included in moving everything over.  This is my daily driver and I need to rely on it and I should be able to.  Only 131k miles, should have lots of life left.

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Ok I gave up on the oil pressure sending unit.  I couldn't get to it and ended up paying someone $200 in labor to replace it for me. They were almost positive they were going to have to take the intake off to get to it but found someone with small enough hands.

On another note, I change the turn signal bulbs back to old style from LED. The Flash Relay I was waiting for that was suppose to work with this suburban if using LEDs is the wrong relay. Its square instead of rectangle. Not a big deal, the turn signal bulbs aren't used as much so the sockets aren't all burnt out like the driving lights which I did change to LED so that should be better for the truck.

Also changed the license plate lights to LED since one was burned out.

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had to order a new washer fluid reservoir and pump.  I got no fluid front or rear. Probably because its middle of winter.

GM Parts Online ORDER #117771 2020-1-14 $121.37 (includes $41.89 shipping)

  • 12487671 - Washer Reservoir
  • 22039457 - Washer Pump Grommet
  • 25731418 - Cap
  • 19244683 - Washer Pump

NOTE: if you have front and rear wipers, then you need two pumps.

Tools you will need

  • Flat Blade Screwdriver
  • 8mm wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • ratchet
  • socket extensions
  • needle nose pliers

STEPS (high level)

  1. remove 10mm bolt that holds the brace above the battery.
  2. loosen the 10mm bolt that holds the brace to the fender so you can just swing the brace out of the way.
  3. using your 8mm wrench, loosen and remove the negative battery cable then remove the positive cable.
  4. using 13mm socket, remove the battery hold down
  5. remove the battery
  6. using 10mm socket, remove the 7 bolts that hold the battery tray down.
  7. remove the battery tray
  8. now in your front left fender, you need to remove the front clips so you can tuck your fender liner in to give you access to your washer reservoir (this is pretty much the most difficult)
  9. pull hoses free from side of washer bottle and remove the 10mm bolt from above and another 10mm bolt from inner fender
  10. disconnect washer pumps
  11. push your washer bottle down and out.

_____________________________

Also have to figure out why when I go through the car wash I'm getting water inside.  I believe I might have drain holes clogged but will need to investigate.  I believe four drain holes.  I could check by opening sunroof and pouring water over each drain hole to see if they are working.  If not, use a coat hanger to push through the hole.

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attempt at fixing the oil consumption issue with the 8.1L in the suburban the following three items have been completed today

  1. intake gasket (known issue GM used a crappy defective intake gasket)
  2. intake bolts (original bolts are known to bottom out and not allow to tighten all the way, I don't feel that is the case this time but its possible. Best to replace)
  3. oil cooler lines replaced (small minor leak but every and any leak is addressed)

We'll have to see...  GM says that its acceptable to burn 1qt of oil for every 1000 miles. Not sure why any oil consumption is acceptable.  The only thing I haven't focused on that might need it is a sticking piston ring maybe.

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