Dodge 1st Gen (1989-93)
The introduction of the Cummins Turbo Diesel model in 1989 coincided with the first sales increase for... View more
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1991 Dodge W250 Project
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1991 Dodge W250 Project
Today picked up a side project, 1991 Dodge Ram W250 with 1st Gen Cummins and a 5spd Manual Trans
The truck hasn’t ran in over 4 years so I don’t dare try and start this old girl before I….
OIL ($102) – ORDERED on 10/29 – amazon
- Drain Oil and Remove Oil Filter
- Replace Oil Filter (fleetguard oil filter
- Remove and Clean Oil Pan (will need new oil pan gasket)
- Add 3gallons (12 qts) new Shell Rotella T6 oil 15w40
FUEL ($25)
- Remove fuel pump to get access to fuel pump
- Drain all fuel from the tank with an approved container or a fuel caddy.
- Drop the tank (see your service manual for further instructions).
- Clean area where the pump is being removed from with a brush.
- Remove fuel pump from tank (avoid letting residual debris fall into the tank).
- Insert hose into fuel tank and begin pouring a stream of clean, hot water.
- While water is filling, spray mild detergent in the tank.
- If opening allows, use a brush to loosen debris from the sides of the tank.
- Stop stream of water.
- Swish the water around to ensure all debris has been captured.
- Dump dirty contaminated water out into a pan, being sure to capture any liquids.
- Further wipe the tank out with a lint-free washcloth.
- Dry the fuel tank completely with compressed air.
- Inspect the tank for rust or physical damage; if present, the tank must be repaired or replaced.
- Add fuel line antifreeze/water remover to help absorb any residual moisture. (HEET roughly $3/12oz bottle)
- After the tank has been dried, let it sit for 30 minutes.
- install fuel pump back in tank
- remove fuel filter
- add new fuel filter (need to know if its got water separator or not but should stay with fleetguard filters which is around $25)
COOLING ($116) – ORDERED on 10/29 from napa
- Remove the lower radiator hose and catch the old draining coolant in a bucket.
- Remove the top radiator hose
- Flush the system out with a normal hose from the house stuck in top of radiator where it connects to engine
- Continue until the water runs clear out of the bottom of the engine.
- Thermostat ??
- Refill with coolant (pre-mixed) and reattach the radiator hoses (might need to just replace the hoses)
ELECTRICAL ($240 napa legend premium)
- In this case the battery is leaking so remove battery (old battery is an Exide Rural King (Part# CFT31P-4)from Farm and Home which is Group Size: 31, 925 CCA at 0 degrees F, 1050 CA at 32 degrees F, 180 RC MINS
- Add new battery
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11 Replies
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Nov 2nd 2023
Received the parts I ordered today.
today I removed the upper and lower radiator hose and drained all the old fluid. I then put some hot water in from the top and hoping it will flush out anything bad in the radiator.
Next need to change thermostat and get some new hose clamps
[attachment file=”36320″]
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November 4th:
today put new radiator hoses on, new antifreeze (peek 50/50) and changed oil and filter. oh yea, new wipers and a new battery. fired right up.
headlight brights turns off headlights. is it a headlight issue or turn signal issue? – headlight switch may be the cause
Power Steering
- RedHead Steering Box ($400) – Part # 2856SNI-3T (arriving 11/14)
- Power Steering Pump Cardone New ($105) (arriving 11/14)
- Borgeson Steering Shaft ($200) (arriving 11/13)
- Power Steering Hoses
- High Pressure Precision Power Steering Hose ($26) (arriving 12/06)
- Return Power Steering Hose (arriving 11/13)
need drivers side parking light
passenger side taillight
3/5 cab lights
battery tray and hold down
battery cables (negative broke)
right rear turn signal doesn’t work
inside light
tires and rims
- Dodge Ram Pickup 250/350 8-bolt (D/W):
- Year: 81-93
- Bolt pattern: 8×165.1 (8×6.5″)
- Offset: 10 mm
- Center bore: 120,9 mm
- Stud size: Lug nuts 9/16″ (18 UNF)
- 9/16 lug nuts
headliner
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November 5th:
today cleaned some of the inside (vacuum and try and bring back the plastic some)
need battery everything
battery hold down with j hooks at least 9” long by 7” wide
new cables
[attachment file=”36324″]
you probably can’t see but the battery is just sliding around the tray since nothing to hold on to the battery cause it’s all rusted out.
You can probably see the negative cable broke when i was trying to tighten it.
so based on this chart
[attachment file=”36325″]
let’s focus on the positive side
[attachment file=”36326″]
5 wires connect at this point. Main wire that runs from battery to start is 3/0 based on being .66 inches and needs to be 3’ in length
now let’s look at the negative side
[attachment file=”36327″]
this also has the 3/0 size and goes to the engine block and a short wire that goes to the front grill (like a body ground)
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November 9th:
got power steering to work today. i lifted the front end up enough the front tires are off the ground and then pulled the cap off the pump and made sure its full and then started it up and turned the steering wheel to the left and waited a minute or two and to the right and waited a minute or two. kept doing this for a few times and made sure the fluid was full and closed the cap. lowered the truck down and it seems solid.
just drove to discount tire and putting on some cheap a/t tires for around $900 and mostly cause those 9/16” lug nuts are rusted onto those steel rims
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November 11th:
Fuel Gauge isn’t working and I have a feeling its in regards to the fuel sending unit assembly which is very rusty.
A new KAI fuel sending assembly (Part # FMD010524) from Advance Auto on its way and should arrive by November 18th, 2023. The KAI fuel sending assembly comes with a 5 year warranty.
no matter what brand you purchase, none of them come with the rollover valve
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November 15th:
I ran into a deadend trying to find a new rollover/check vent valve so I just made the old one work which was a pain in the butt to put back in. Lets just say I used a rubber mallet on top of the valve and hit the rubber mallet with a sledge to pop it into place. Looks okay so going with it since I’m very limited on my options.
Got everything tightened up and put back together and it fired right up. No issues what so ever. Now time to go test the fuel gauge by filling up the tank.
Since the filler is on the flatbed I can’t just fill up like a normal human being.. I have to turn the pump handle side ways so the fuel will not back flow. I need to replace the filler neck at some point. It appears some rust pin holes are appearing. After $60 @$4.14/gal I decided to just stop the pump.
Decided while I’m out I would go pick up some 1157 bulbs for the taillights. I hit the railroad tracks and truck died (like it was starving for fuel). My natural reaction is to second guess what I did.. what did I do to break my truck? I could see drips of fluid wherever my truck drove and I looked under the truck to see the back gas tank strap (pretty rusted out) broke and the gas tank is practically laying on the ground. Called tow truck. If it was less than half full I think I could of rigged up something to push fuel more towards the front of the tank so I could get it running to get home but a very full tank, I’m not able to even move the tank a little bit. So $85 for tow is how it goes.
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So immediate need
- Replace Rusted out Gas Tank Straps ($100 parts) – DONE
- Power Steering Leak
- Steering Box – DONE
- Power Steering Pump – didn’t need to do
- New PS Hoses – DONE
- Steering Shaft & Rag Joint – DONE
- Brakes
- Brake Lines – DONE
- Brake Hoses – DONE
- Emergency Brake – DONE
- New Rotors/Drums – DONE
- New Brake Pads – DONE
- Rear Axle Seal – DONE
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LIGHTS
need to update dash lights
FRONT
- Front Side Marker Bulb: Stock #: 194
- Front Turn Signal Bulb: Stock #: 2057NA (2057A) – Amber (non-LED)
- Clearance Light Bulb: Stock #: 194
REAR
- Backup Bulb: Stock #: 1156 – Replaced Stock with LED Taillight
- Brake Light / Turn Signal Bulb: Stock #: 1157 – Replaced Stock with LED Taillight
- License Plate Bulb: Stock #: 168
- Parking Light Bulb: Stock #: 2057NA (2057A)
- Rear Side Marker Bulb: Stock #: 194
INTERIOR
- Courtesy Light Bulb: Stock #: 1004
- Glove Box Builb: Stock #: 1891
- High Beam / Parking Brake / Turn Signal Indicator Bulb: Stock #: 194
- Instrument Panel Bulbs: Stock #: 158
- Map Light Bulb: Stock #: 562
- Radio Display Bulb: Stock #: 74
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lost the exhaust today.. hit some railroad tracks and the exhaust came off but it feels solid enough that I can leave it for now.
[attachment file=”36334″]
[attachment file=”36335″]
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[attachment file=”36337″]
So the brake light stays on and what I have been reading it could be any of these or multiple of these reasons.
- On Diesel Models only the brake light is also connected to a sensor that monitors vacuum in the brake booster system. The Brake light when lit indicates LOW VACUUM.
- Brake System is leaking fluid (should be obvious)
- Grounded Wiring
- Shorted parking brake or brake warning switch
- faulty brake system proportioning valve unit
[attachment file=”36338″]
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today changed the front diff, rear diff and transfer case fluids. the worse of the three was the rear diff for sure.
unable to change the transmission fluid which NEEDS to be changed. someone put a crap ton of silicon on the drain bolt.
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