wildweaselmi

Thanksgiving I smoked two 14lb turkeys following this recipe with Cherry wood and everyone loved it. This is my Thanksgiving Turkey recipe every year which is why I'm following this recipe so I don't loose it. Had a beautiful smoke ring on Turkey when cut into it. Awesome! BGE pre-warmed to 300 as instructed (you said 275-300 so figured with two I should take the warmer side of 300) As your recipe suggested, I then got the turkeys ready with a good wash to get rid of the brine and then seasoned it as instructed Here is a sneak peek of the two turkeys looking beautiful

I liked this recipe... Here is another way to make French Toast (not better or worse than yours, just different) Ingredients: 1 egg 1 teaspoon Vanilla Extract 1/2 teaspoon Ground Cinnamon 1/4 cup milk 4 slices bread Instructions: Beat egg, vanilla and cinnamon in shallow dish. Stir in milk. Dip bread in egg mixture, turning to coat both sides evenly. Cook bread slices on lightly greased nonstick griddle or skillet on medium heat until browned on both sides. Serve with Easy Spiced Syrup (recipe follows), if desired. Easy Spiced Syrup: Add 1 teaspoon Extract and 1/4 teaspoon Ground Cinnamon to 1 cup pancake syrup; stir well to mix. Serve warm, if desired.

Also went ahead and ordered Dakota Digital gauge cluster from Affordable Street Rods since everyone is sold out of the cluster I wanted which you saw my earlier post I made back in 2019. Well it cost more than the $1295 it use to be and now the out the door price with shipping and Michigan tax was $1635.48 but this also includes the GSS-3000 which is the Gear Position Sensor so you can see in the gauge cluster what gear you are in.

So that PerformaBuilt Trans that I purchased for around $3500 was pure junk. Totally would not recommend buying anything from these con artists. The two year "VERY Limited" warranty (if you buy a torque converter from them otherwise its only one year warranty) works if you drain any fluid out of the trans, pay for wrapping trans in plastic, boxing per the standards they put in place and shipping your transmission to them in PA. Its so expensive to ship the transmission that its cheaper to just have someone else fix the mess they call a trans. Given that the best thing PerformaBuilt transmissions does is take your money with ease without delivering a product for the amount you pay, I'm staying local and I recommend you do the same. Dropped my Blazer off to a company in Michigan that knows old school transmissions. In fact A & M transmissions is the destination for anyone in the state of Michigan for Powerglide 2speed trans and the older transmissions. Of course they work on new transmissions as well. I've been working with a guy named Jeff and he is very knowledgeable and very OCD on making sure its done right and it doesn't matter how long it takes. Todays labor rates are around $99/hr We discussed whether we are going to stick with the 700R4 and focus on why this transmission keeps burning up OR change to a 4L60e trans which is really the same as a 700R4 transmission. In fact the only difference is the 4L60e has an 18-pin electronic connector above the passenger side pan rail vs the 700R4 doesn't have the 18-pin connector but does have the cable connection near the cooler lines on the passenger side. 700R4 PROS Less expensive than 4L60E – no expensive controller needed Easier to install with minimal wiring Popular upgrade support Fits most early chassis Transmission has cable speedometer output – no adapters needed 700R4 CONS Limited torque capacity with early transmissions TV cable is difficult to adjust for proper pressure and up-shifts Must use pressure gauge to set TV cable for proper part throttle up-shift Often requires custom TV cable bracket and connection on carburetor or EFI Custom WOT shift points require governor changes Limited to converter lock-up only in overdrive (4th gear) Needs special brake light switch to cut power to unlock converter when brake is applied May require additional low-vacuum switch to cut out converter lockup under heavy part-throttle load – and then may cycle back and forth – requiring additional delay relay 4L60E PROS Full and finite electronic control over all aspects of shift control, including WOT Easy changes to part-throttle shift points and line pressure Easy setup for desired converter lockup – can lock in third Can tune shift points from the interior – no need to crawl under the car Can buy EFI packages with transmission control as part of EFI – saves money Increased torque capacity with 4L65-70-75 versions LS engines can use the LS 4L60E – no adapters necessary Speedometer calibration is simple 4L60E CONS Most expensive – must add separate controller – can cost up to $1,200 Needs a TPS input – must add with carburetor Requires adapter to run either electric speedometer or motor to spin cable speedometer Cooler lines use push-in clip connectors that often leak – should replace with a more traditional connector – AN or inverted flare Told Jeff @ A & M Trans that my decision is to go to the 4l60e transmission. He's now doing the research and gathering parts.

Had to fix a few things Both CV Axles (purchased from PartsGeek) 555 Balljoints from PartsGeek 555 Idler Arm from PartsGeek Clutch Master & Slave Cylinder from Marlin Crawler ASIN Clutch and a Flywheel from Marlin Crawler Noticing gas leak around where the gas tank is.. need to check into that Also want to change the basic gauge cluster to one with a tach from an SR5 model. Clusters on eBay for anywhere from $140-$220 but you need to know if you have an electronic speedo or cable ran speedo. Need to bring the truck in the garage and address the gas leak first. A new Toyota gas tank runs around $700 but I believe I can fix it for less but unfortunately I just filled the sucker up. Note there was no gas leak until I filled it up so its probably a hole somewhere near the top of the tank.

So I acquired this 1994 Toyota T100 DX Longbed 4x4 with the 3.0L engine and Manual 5spd Trans. Runs good and it appears to have had the timing belt and water pump replaced and a fresh tune up but it idling high. Clutch pedal doesn't disengage. You push the pedal to the floor and it doesn't return to the original position. The bed is pretty rusty on the outside. The bed itself seems okay. Frontend is loose (needs balljoints and possibly idler arm)

My family and I would love to begin overlanding based on all the forums and youtube videos we watch about Overlanding. We are in Michigan outside Flint and was curious if anyone has suggestions where to go do some Overlanding in Michigan?

Looks like I found my snow plow this winter.