Got the rotors and pads.. waiting for a couple of parts to show up for the bearings since I have to take all that off anyhow to replace the rotors.

Just ordered EBC Stage 3 Rotors and Brake Pads from EBC for $296.35

Now wheel bearings…
Timken or National or SKF (or are they all the same?)
I ordered from Summit, Timken 6408 – Timken Wheel Bearings for $37.94 and since I wanted the free shipping I also ordered a replacement Dorman 49284 – Dorman Turn Signal Levers for $68.97 since mine is broke.

Once I get my wheel bearings, I should have what I need to fix the front end… partially. I still need $1800 for the Pro Comp 4 Inch Lift Kit with MX-6 Shocks (EXPK1053BMX).

Update…

Price to get exterior painted. It looks like someone did a very cheap paint job (not removing moldings) paint is chipping off (probably didn’t stick good to the wax underneath. Anyhow, Maaco said they will give it there best paint job, body work making it look like factory with it baked on for $5700 and they’ll need it for a month.

Just had the suspension double-checked at Mr. Front End today to confirm what I saw. They found a bent front spring shackle and the rubber grommet on the front springs are deteriorated. Both of these are fixed with a Pro Comp Suspension Lift ($1800). Also found are some bad wheel bearings in the front which I’ll do when I replace the front rotors with EBC Rotors ($300 for the pair on Summit) and EBC pads ($80).

[attachment file=”67238″]
Just pulled in the driveway and parked the new Blazer. Had fun going through Memphis then down to Tupelo, MS to pick the K5 up then headed to Nashville for the day and night then home bound on Sunday. Sunday was a long drive in a truck I wasn’t familiar with but it ran good. Max speed was 80 comfortably and horsepower wise or that 700R4 would have to keep downshifting to please my demand for power.

So I didn’t realize how bad the interior was, its not so good. Dash pad is cracked, sliced and butchered. It appears they were trying to replace the speakers maybe since those are the only areas that are hacked. So new dash pad is required. Driver side seat back support is broke so you have a gangster lean to the right if you want to or not. So new seats are needed. Nothing else major except I want to change the wine color to all black which means a complete replacement of the interior which is going to be hell and expensive but look bad ass. Maybe even use billet for accents.

[attachment file=”67239″]
On the exterior all I see is the paint job is crap so I’ll remove the moldings and stickers from the windows. Probably get a decent paint job at Maaco but keeping it white.

Once interior is done and then the paint job is done then I’ll start looking at suspension lift, possible a new engine like this monster

[attachment file=”67240″]

Different Clubs that are focused on ATV riding in the Upper Peninsula (UP)

https://www.keweenawatvclub.com/

https://teamridersmqt.org/

https://www.facebook.com/hiawathalandtrailassociation

Seven Hour Plane Crash Trail Ride

Why is it called the 7 hour plane crash trail?

Originally this trail was put together by someone who used to desert race. They called Baja races all day plane crashes. This trail is about 300 miles long. Which takes about 7 hours non stop.

245 Miles in total which is best to tackle in the fall

The Seven Hour Plane Crash trail can be run from Crandon, WI, or from Copper Harbor, MI, and travels all the way to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. A particularly quiet trail, you can expect ruts, lots of forest roads, some washboard sections and a potential water crossing. Copper Harbor High Rock Bay camping area is busy but has great views. The trail into the High Rock Bay outside of Copper Harbor is also very rough with deep ruts and potholes that will swallow a minivan.

today changed the front diff, rear diff and transfer case fluids. the worse of the three was the rear diff for sure.

unable to change the transmission fluid which NEEDS to be changed. someone put a crap ton of silicon on the drain bolt.

[attachment file=”36337″]

So the brake light stays on and what I have been reading it could be any of these or multiple of these reasons.

• On Diesel Models only the brake light is also connected to a sensor that monitors vacuum in the brake booster system.  The Brake light when lit indicates LOW VACUUM.
• Brake System is leaking fluid (should be obvious)
• Grounded Wiring
• Shorted parking brake or brake warning switch
• faulty brake system proportioning valve unit

[attachment file=”36338″]

lost the exhaust today.. hit some railroad tracks and the exhaust came off but it feels solid enough that I can leave it for now.

[attachment file=”36334″]

[attachment file=”36335″]

LIGHTS

need to update dash lights

FRONT

• Front Side Marker Bulb: Stock #: 194
• Front Turn Signal Bulb: Stock #: 2057NA (2057A) – Amber (non-LED)
• Clearance Light Bulb: Stock #: 194

REAR

• Backup Bulb: Stock #: 1156 – Replaced Stock with LED Taillight
• Brake Light / Turn Signal Bulb: Stock #: 1157 – Replaced Stock with LED Taillight
• License Plate Bulb: Stock #: 168
• Parking Light Bulb: Stock #: 2057NA (2057A)
• Rear Side Marker Bulb: Stock #: 194

INTERIOR

• Courtesy Light Bulb: Stock #: 1004
• Glove Box Builb: Stock #: 1891
• High Beam / Parking Brake / Turn Signal Indicator Bulb: Stock #: 194
• Instrument Panel Bulbs: Stock #: 158
• Map Light Bulb: Stock #: 562
• Radio Display Bulb: Stock #: 74

So immediate need

• Replace Rusted out Gas Tank Straps ($100 parts) –  DONE
• Power Steering Leak
  • Steering Box – DONE
  • Power Steering Pump – didn’t need to do
  • New PS Hoses – DONE
  • Steering Shaft & Rag Joint – DONE
• Brakes
  • Brake Lines – DONE
  • Brake Hoses – DONE
  • Emergency Brake – DONE
  • New Rotors/Drums – DONE
  • New Brake Pads – DONE
• Rear Axle Seal – DONE

November 15th:

I ran into a deadend trying to find a new rollover/check vent valve so I just made the old one work which was a pain in the butt to put back in.  Lets just say I used a rubber mallet on top of the valve and hit the rubber mallet with a sledge to pop it into place.  Looks okay so going with it since I’m very limited on my options.

Got everything tightened up and put back together and it fired right up.  No issues what so ever.  Now time to go test the fuel gauge by filling up the tank.

Since the filler is on the flatbed I can’t just fill up like a normal human being..  I have to turn the pump handle side ways so the fuel will not back flow.  I need to replace the filler neck at some point.  It appears some rust pin holes are appearing.  After $60 @$4.14/gal I decided to just stop the pump.

Decided while I’m out I would go pick up some 1157 bulbs for the taillights.  I hit the railroad tracks and truck died (like it was starving for fuel).  My natural reaction is to second guess what I did..  what did I do to break my truck?  I could see drips of fluid wherever my truck drove and I looked under the truck to see the back gas tank strap (pretty rusted out) broke and the gas tank is practically laying on the ground.  Called tow truck.  If it was less than half full I think I could of rigged up something to push fuel more towards the front of the tank so I could get it running to get home but a very full tank, I’m not able to even move the tank a little bit.  So $85 for tow is how it goes.

November 11th:

Fuel Gauge isn’t working and I have a feeling its in regards to the fuel sending unit assembly which is very rusty.

A new KAI fuel sending assembly (Part # FMD010524) from Advance Auto on its way and should arrive by November 18th, 2023.  The KAI fuel sending assembly comes with a 5 year warranty.

no matter what brand you purchase, none of them come with the rollover valve

November 9th:

got power steering to work today. i lifted the front end up enough the front tires are off the ground and then pulled the cap off the pump and made sure its full and then started it up and turned the steering wheel to the left and waited a minute or two and to the right and waited a minute or two.  kept doing this for a few times and made sure the fluid was full and closed the cap. lowered the truck down and it seems solid.

just drove to discount tire and putting on some cheap a/t tires for around $900 and mostly cause those 9/16” lug nuts are rusted onto those steel rims

November 5th:

today cleaned some of the inside (vacuum and try and bring back the plastic some)

need battery everything

battery hold down with j hooks at least 9” long by 7” wide

new cables

[attachment file=”36324″]

you probably can’t see but the battery is just sliding around the tray since nothing to hold on to the battery cause it’s all rusted out.

You can probably see the negative cable broke when i was trying to tighten it.

so based on this chart

[attachment file=”36325″]

let’s focus on the positive side

[attachment file=”36326″]

5 wires connect at this point. Main wire that runs from battery to start is 3/0 based on being .66 inches and needs to be 3’ in length

now let’s look at the negative side

[attachment file=”36327″]

this also has the 3/0 size and goes to the engine block and a short wire that goes to the front grill (like a body ground)